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Wall Street
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Nervous in Suburbia 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 8,887
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Feb 19, 2002
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Description 

I couldn't quite bring myself to give a 50 foot sport route on Wall Street 3 stars, but this is a really really good route all the same. Devious face climbing reminiscent of Eldo (thin edges that slant the wrong way, etc.). It starts 2 climbs left of the prominent and popular LF corner, "30 Seconds Over Potash" (in between is a thin .10a LF corner, Lucy in the Sky with Potash"). The first bolt is a bit high (climb in from the right), but once clipped it will be at your waist for the crux sequence. Above is 5.8-5.9ish climbing with 3 adequately spaced bolts, to a good bolted anchor.


Protection 

4 bolts. I didn't notice any gear placements. A 50-M rope works fine.



Photos of Nervous in Suburbia Slideshow Add Photo
first bolt on nervous
first bolt on nervous
Lee working the crux.
Lee working the crux.
The crux move is really fun.
The crux move is really fun.
It's easier if you can clone yourself.
It's easier if you can clone yourself.
Lee Rittenmeyer on Nervous in Suburbia.
Lee Rittenmeyer on Nervous in Suburbia.
Jables on N.I.S.
Jables on N.I.S.
Nervous in Suburbia
Nervous in Suburbia
Climbing Nervous in Suburbia
Climbing Nervous in Suburbia
Dave - Higher up on the climb
Dave - Higher up on the climb
Comments on Nervous in Suburbia Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 2, 2014
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 5, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I found that climbing in to the first bolt from the right was harder than just going sraight up, then mantling the big edge to stand and clip. This should be done by a solid climber. The sequence after the clip is fun and is reach dependent. A tall person can reach the next two holds and might downgrade the sequence difficulty. This was really fun and mostly positive rather than your typical Navajo formation slopers.

The two bolts side-by side at the 3rd (?) clip were both decent, but one was hangerless. Take up a small stopper to swage this (the nut is still there) and you can back up the clip.

By Matthew
Feb 6, 2005

awesome route, it was the 3rd route i climbed in moab, right after 30 seconds over potash, and lucy in the sky with potash. three classics. this climb felt harder than 10a to me, but i was used to pocketed limestone of AF, so my judgement is rather irrelevent. great climb, recommend it to all. getting to the first bolt can be sketchy if your not solid.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
May 31, 2006

Going straight up from the first bolt can make the next several moves a bit harder. An almost-deadpoint worked best for me. Sporty.

By Jonathan Schumacher
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 20, 2007

Novel climb. I could not get used to the (then-1998) pitons as protection. Interesting moves and a nice exhilarating break from crack climbing!

By Daniel Crescenzo
Oct 8, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

height dependent rating. I am 5'7" so this is like a 10b for me. lot's of fun though. I hope that little crystal of calcite stays for a while.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

good route, but clip that 1st bolt off the big foot ledge down low...i managed to do another move before clipping and scared the crap out of my 'spotter'!

By Deaun Schovajsa
Dec 19, 2008

This is a fun route. I first climbed this in 1989, then climbed again about a year ago. I was surprised that the edges were still pretty positive and the climbing hadn't changed much in 18 years.

By Lynn S
Mar 13, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Fun route, first clip is off the ground a bit. Moved through the crux by heading left from the first bolt. Good match to the left for hands, small ramp for feet, go for the obvious large rail out left. Engaging climbing above. Belayer needs to be attentive as there is potential for a near grounder if you mess up the moves getting to the second bolt.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
May 6, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Thanks to the ASCA (and I'm guessing Sam) for the new anchor and replacing the old pins on this one.

By Bryan T
Jul 7, 2010

Horridly bolted. 1st bolt is about 18' off the deck and you are either clipping off or moving from a shitty crimp. 2nd bolt has potential for ground fall depending where you clip from. Recommend a stick clip unless you are totally confident to either clip from a small crimp or don't mind moving through the crux to a solid hold where you could clip from but will be up 20' by that point.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jul 10, 2010

It was rebolted with bolt placements as close to the originals as possible. This kept it in the style it was done in at the F.A.... and all subsequent ascents til this year

By Jason Lantz
Jul 11, 2010

climbed this one the other day. Glad to see the hardware update. Thanks to Sam!

By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Fun and reach-y, thanks to the folks that stick clipped the 1st bolt for me! I'm so short.

By Cody Drool
From: Tahoe Vista, CA
May 21, 2011

Super fun & balancey route. Positive holds. High first bolt like most Moab sport climbs. I would say this is a Potash classic bolted route. A must do!

By Greg Halliday
From: Spanish Fork, UT
Oct 30, 2011

Great climb. As others have said, it may be more difficult for shorter folks. I'm 5'9" and seem to do okay. The rating is solid for me. May be easier if you're taller; certainly is harder if shorter (my GF at the time told me so.) She was a really good climber and could flash pretty much any 5.11c/d (crack, face, bald slab, juggy overhang, plastic at the gym) you could throw at her. She is/was 5'3" tall and the reach on the crux was vexing. She had to make a smidge of a dyno about it. It was cool to watch.

By jeacmusic
Feb 24, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

Crimpalicious !!! Fun, reachy and sequency for the first 2 bolts, the end is a lot of fun!!

By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Mar 9, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

Yep, that first clip would be ankle damage if you fell. I woulda stick-clipped it if it was much tougher. Very balancy. Felt tougher than10a to me. If it had a couple more bolts, then 10a would be about right. Great route just for the balance it requires.

By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Oct 20, 2012

How could more bolts change the grade?

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Dang! This route was crazy. The first bolt is high! Took me a while to just pull the move and go for the clip. It's almost crazy how this route is outside. It's such a balanc-y and gym like route. Awesome moves the whole way up. Very sustained. It gets run out after the 2nd bolt, but the climbing is easiest here (not easy, but easiest). Everytime you pull a rough move and clip, it felt like there was a great big slopping foot that you could rest on and regain your sanity. Good climb if you get to that first bolt!

By Shippster
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Did this route today. High quality for the entire pitch. The crux is between the first and second bolts. Match hands and reach high. This is definitely a 5.10b.

By Andrew S.
Nov 21, 2012

This climb is awesome. First bolt is up there. Starting up the ramp can lead to a tricky move around the corner to make the clip. I would go for a direct start next time. Get on it for sure.

By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
May 20, 2013

Fun route after getting the first bolt clipped. To echo other comments: send a solid, confident or foolish leader as getting to that first bold is a bit tenuous.

By Justin Brink
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Apr 2, 2014

short, but great. Don't miss this one! May be helpful to have a stick clip for the first bolt.