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Redgarden - Tower One
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Neptune's Bible 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Gary Neptune, roped solo, 1970s
Season: Faces West
Page Views: 236
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 25, 2011
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  • Description 

    This is an interesting route with a considerable amount of adventure for a "mere 5.8." Start on an unconventional start, climbing a tree, which is mostly stripped of the branches you'd like to have. Sling a few branches with girth-hitched slings for protection. As you near the rock, a small cam placement and then a fist-sized piece present themselves just before pulling onto the rock, while tip-toeing from the treetop onto the rock. This is probably the crux. One can head sharply left from there to a stance as a small evergreen and belay on gear, or continue onward (continue...). Climb up on mostly good, incut holds with occasional gear and long slings to keep the rope direct and drag low. You should be below a hanging, right-facing corner. Climb up into this and through it.

    Upon finishing the right-facing corner, you can traverse hard left (West) for 50+ feet on a jumbled ledge to a belay on a tree near a 2-rope rap (160') over Apple Strudel/The Untouchables.

    A solid belay on the ledge at a tree just before that rap can be reached from the ground on a 70m rope, but the rope will not get you to the ground. 5.1 climbing behind that tree and left will take you to the Dirt Deed raps, where a single 70m will get you just to the ground, or where a short rope will get you there in 2 raps.

    If you wanted to keep going above the dihedral, you can continue (with a 70m) up and right as for the final pitch of Rocky Raccoon. This splits up and right at the top to intersect the top of the upper ramp (and Vertigo raps) or up and left to the Red Ledge, escaping via a finish on a route above (Yellow Spur or Icarus, etc...) or down and left to the raps on the Dirty Deed Chminey.


    Location 

    This route starts as for Rocky Raccoon and branches left from that route where the tree meets the wall and climbs up and left to a stance an optional belay from there before continuing up and below a large, hanging, right-facing dihedral, and through that to a rotten band (another optional belay).

    From that area, head up and right to the top of the upper ramp (left edge) or right edge of the Red Ledge.


    Protection 

    A standard rack with 1 of everything to 4"... or 2 of everything if you want to run it all into a single pitch.



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