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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,122
Submitted By: David Arthur Sampson on Jun 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Topend of Neptune


A classic. A bit exciting getting established on the face above the last bolt; fun stuff! A must do climb.

Start on slick, water polished rock located at an apex of the pool area below the dam; look for a short dihedral near the top of the wall.


Left side of a buttress adjacent (left) to the schizophrenic buttress (photo provide for schozo.).



Photos of Neptune Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Final stem moves near the top--looking down!  So e...
Final stem moves near the top--looking down! So e...
Rock Climbing Photo: Working my way up Neptune
Working my way up Neptune
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew working up Neptune
Andrew working up Neptune

Comments on Neptune Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

FA's - Ken Mills & Dave Sobocan '91

p1 - 7 bolts w/shut anchors. p2 - 3 bolts to shuts

You can also rap this route to get down vs. taking the trail. Early 90's there was a serial flasher that "hung" out up there.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 11, 2010

A single 70m will get you from the top of the 2nd pitch anchors down to the bottom in one rap.

The first pitch is really enjoyable with cool holds, fun bulges, and a some good crimping.

The second pitch to exit Atlantis is a tad spacey in bolting. The rating is 10a or 9? Very short, but it gets more interesting as the last rays of daylight wane.
By brucy
Apr 15, 2010

A somwhat fun route that suffers from some ego-based bolting. This can be helped somewhat by bringing some wires and rp's to supplement the bolts,
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 8, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Two stars simply because of the top bolt -- call it mixed and bring some small gear to add, will make it much easier on the mind game.
By NickSch
From: Golden, CO
Nov 14, 2012

Looks like a bolt has been added between the anchors and last bolt (as you come out around the roof into the short dihedral). Feels much less sketchy now than the previous comments are suggesting. Thanks to whoever did it.
By Fred AmRhein
Nov 24, 2012

I'll second the thanks for the added top bolt on the final move in the dihedral though I usually do the arete finish.

Also, just an FYI, I added the first weld shut bolt some years ago. The actual "first" bolt on the route is now the second.

By Paonessa
From: Phoenix,AZ
Jul 5, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: I replaced  the  anchors on the first pitch of Nep...
I replaced the anchors on the first pitch of Neptune last week with new Metolius rap hangers and 4" Rawl power bolts. The condition of the old hangers was dangerous. The penny acting as a gauge shows the wear, a good 1/8 inch of material missing. What you can not see is a sharp burr on the outside edge of each hanger!
Just a note of caution to our new climbers -
DO NOT top rope directly through hangers, use your own draws . Granted the hangers are 22 years old but we have all seen party's in the area using the anchors without draws for top rope sessions.
Note I will return and finish patching the old bolt holes. Was having some issues with the expoxy due to high temps.
By Toby Wehler
From: Chicago, IL
Apr 5, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I can see why this route is popular. Varied climbing the whole way with good holds. Will do the second pitch at some point to 'complete' the route. Thanks for putting in the new anchors!
By Anthony Miklas
From: Phoenix , Arizona
Apr 3, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

fun moderate climb, with bad rock quality

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