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Unsorted Routes:

Neopolitan Headrush 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 803
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Mar 30, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: The Bank, Neopolitan Headrush Area.

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Description 

Located on the far left side of the bank in a less visited small amphitheatre of rock, Neapolitan Headrush climbs the furthest left bolted route. The crux comes right off the deck, so expect some tricky belaying with belayer and climber becoming intimate, better yet stick clip the second bolt. After working out the pockets and crimps of the lower crux, cruise up to the shelf for a comfortable rest (or nap if it's sunny and warm). Clip the bolt and crank out of the roof. Like the lower sequence, the roof here takes some vision to work out. Unlike the multiple choice questions on other Shelf climbs where deciding which chalked hold is the best, on NH deciding which unchalked hold that you may or may not see right now is best? The route is a little short by shelf standards and the two cruxes are separated by a easy to achieve no hands rest, yet the route has very interesting moves on quality rock. Deserves more ascents than at appears to receive.


Protection 

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Neopolitan Headrush Slideshow Add Photo
Neopolitan Headrush in 1988. I just can't find pants like those anymore!
Neopolitan Headrush in 1988. I just can't find pan...
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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 21, 2005

This was my first "real" 12 sport. I had done some random 12 off of Deer Creek Road on top [rope] about a thousand times before. [This] one I did about four months ago after a short career as a sport climber and a fairly long career as a boulderer. Let me say that with my vast bouldering experiences this climb was great. The start is the crux and if you fall, there is kind of an intimidating drop off ledge. I would [recommend] a stick clip. Or just look at the problem in absolute detail [before] you start.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Did this not long after the FA (1988) and thought it soft for the 5.12b rating it sported - .12a seems more accurate. Good pockets down low to hard to read moves up high.

By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Dec 23, 2008

Probably .12b if you are shorter....