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Magic Bus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blonde Dwarf T,TR 
Electric Koolaid S,TR 
Ken Queasy T,S 
Neon Sunset T,S 
Queasy Sunrise S 
Technicolor Sunrise T,S 
Zipperhead T 

Neon Sunset 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: K. Pogue, C. Dodson, '93
Page Views: 5,878
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (216)
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Leading Neon Sunset on a bluebird December day.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is the central route up the wall - the second from the left of the fully bolted lines at Magic Bus. Despite the fact that I generally enjoy trad routes more, I found this to be one of the better lines at the cliff, despite being a little over-bolted. Unlike a few of its neighbors, the line is continuous and straight--aesthetic and nice. Perhaps one of the good reasons to hit this cliff on a winter morning. It's also a good warm up.

Climb up the bolted line passing 9 bolts to the anchor up top. At one time the bolt hangers were red, and still may well be.

Protection 

A set of 11 draws. (9 bolts + anchor)


Photos of Neon Sunset Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Bus
BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus
Rock Climbing Photo: Easy top-out.  Clips at the top bolts were a great...
Easy top-out. Clips at the top bolts were a great...
Rock Climbing Photo: First lead...awesome February day
First lead...awesome February day
Rock Climbing Photo: Super well protected and fun.
Super well protected and fun.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out Neon Sunset.
Topping out Neon Sunset.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising through the fun
Cruising through the fun
Rock Climbing Photo: onsight leading Neon Sunset
onsight leading Neon Sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Having fun.
Having fun.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sending Neon Sunset.
Sending Neon Sunset.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Parks follows 'Neon Sunset' (5.8) at the Mag...
Chris Parks follows 'Neon Sunset' (5.8) at the Mag...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sun...
Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sun...

Comments on Neon Sunset Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 15, 2016
By Casey Flynn
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The Brock and McMillan Guide call this a 5 star classic. I thought it was way overbolted and not that great. A little too much clipping for my liking. Better over than under though, I guess
By gilbert.2003
From: Burke, VA
Apr 15, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A bit over bolted but gotta like it when you get it.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 19, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb and great warm-up. As this was my first sport lead in RR, I was rather thankful for all the bolts. ;-)
By Christine Gal
From: henderson, nv
Mar 1, 2009

wow -- don't think I've been on a route with so many bolts in such a short ascend, I nearly z-clipped a couple times... you definitely feel protected on this route.

really fun, warm up climb. someone new on lead might feel right arm getting a little pumped by half way up. it does seem longer than 45' though, especially if you compare it to Technicolor Sunrise.

last links on anchor are getting worn out -- someone needs to cut those two off and be all set with the remaining anchor links.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Apr 13, 2009

9 bolts spaced 5 feet apart or so. The holds are positive all the way up, with a a few high steps and side pulls for the shorter climber.
By billdlee
From: las vegas
Apr 29, 2009

This is really a fun lead. The holds were worn smooth, but still positive. By far the best climb on this wall.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

On 3/3/10, the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced 6 pro bolts and 2 anchor bolts with 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts, and equipped the new anchor with mussy hooks. The two remaining original bolts are still in good shape.

also, i would note that this is not the left-most of the bolted routes, but rather, the central line up the cliff face. the left most is a 5.9 that ascends the left hand side of the wall.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

An excellent first lead. Just be careful getting to that first bolt; it wouldn't be a clean landing.
By Nicholas Corcoran
Dec 3, 2015

Climbed this route on 11/28/15. The left bolt on the anchor is loose and has about 2mm of play in each direction. Be careful and be redundant cleaning this route until the left bolt is replaced.
By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 25, 2015

Despite the rave reviews, not a great route. Mostly due to the bolting. It's essentially a bolt ladder. At one point you can clip three bolts from a single stance. Also, it's not even a straight bolt ladder. Bolts wander all over the place, do not follow the line, and create significant drag. The route was fun but hard to enjoy with the annoying bolt placements.
By James Cranston
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Cannot rave about this thing enough. Ventured up here for our rest day (the approach SUCKS!) to do the 8s (the strip downtown wasn't appealing to us, and had a bum knee so couldn't really go hiking!) ha. This climb is FANTASTIC! An absolute joy ride. Weather was 40 some degrees in December, but this crag gets hella sun and it kind of sits on top of the rock so it felt extremely pleasant around mid-day, so I didn't need any layers! Ran laps on it. This is honestly just very enjoyable movement on great sandstone with a hell of a view at a really great crag for Red Rock. You can *for sure* skip bolts on it if you're low on QDs or feeling lazy. I can see this being a good rock climb to learn how to sport climb on, since there are no real run outs and every move has options for both feet and hands. This competes with a 5.8 at Maple Canyon (Key Lime Sky at Oxygen Wall, Right Fork) for my favorite at the grade... Enjoy!

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