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Magic Bus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blonde Dwarf T,TR 
Electric Koolaid S,TR 
Ken Queasy T,S 
Neon Sunset T,S 
Queasy Sunrise S 
Technicolor Sunrise T,S 
Zipperhead T 

Neon Sunset 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: K. Pogue, C. Dodson, '93
Page Views: 5,615
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (192)
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Leading Neon Sunset on a bluebird December day.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This route is the central route up the wall - the second from the left of the fully bolted lines at Magic Bus. Despite the fact that I generally enjoy trad routes more, I found this to be one of the better lines at the cliff, despite being a little over-bolted. Unlike a few of its neighbors, the line is continuous and straight--aesthetic and nice. Perhaps one of the good reasons to hit this cliff on a winter morning. It's also a good warm up.

Climb up the bolted line passing 9 bolts to the anchor up top. At one time the bolt hangers were red, and still may well be.


A set of 11 draws. (9 bolts + anchor)

Photos of Neon Sunset Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Bus
Rock Climbing Photo: Easy top-out.  Clips at the top bolts were a great...
Easy top-out. Clips at the top bolts were a great...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sun...
Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising through the fun
Cruising through the fun
Rock Climbing Photo: Sending Neon Sunset.
Sending Neon Sunset.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Parks follows 'Neon Sunset' (5.8) at the Mag...
Chris Parks follows 'Neon Sunset' (5.8) at the Mag...
Rock Climbing Photo: Super well protected and fun.
Super well protected and fun.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out Neon Sunset.
Topping out Neon Sunset.
Rock Climbing Photo: onsight leading Neon Sunset
onsight leading Neon Sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: First lead...awesome February day
First lead...awesome February day
Rock Climbing Photo: Having fun.
Having fun.

Comments on Neon Sunset Add Comment
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By Casey Flynn
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The Brock and McMillan Guide call this a 5 star classic. I thought it was way overbolted and not that great. A little too much clipping for my liking. Better over than under though, I guess
By gilbert.2003
From: Burke, VA
Apr 15, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A bit over bolted but gotta like it when you get it.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 19, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb and great warm-up. As this was my first sport lead in RR, I was rather thankful for all the bolts. ;-)
By Christine Gal
From: henderson, nv
Mar 1, 2009

wow -- don't think I've been on a route with so many bolts in such a short ascend, I nearly z-clipped a couple times... you definitely feel protected on this route.

really fun, warm up climb. someone new on lead might feel right arm getting a little pumped by half way up. it does seem longer than 45' though, especially if you compare it to Technicolor Sunrise.

last links on anchor are getting worn out -- someone needs to cut those two off and be all set with the remaining anchor links.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Apr 13, 2009

9 bolts spaced 5 feet apart or so. The holds are positive all the way up, with a a few high steps and side pulls for the shorter climber.
By billdlee
From: las vegas
Apr 29, 2009

This is really a fun lead. The holds were worn smooth, but still positive. By far the best climb on this wall.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

On 3/3/10, the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced 6 pro bolts and 2 anchor bolts with 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts, and equipped the new anchor with mussy hooks. The two remaining original bolts are still in good shape.

also, i would note that this is not the left-most of the bolted routes, but rather, the central line up the cliff face. the left most is a 5.9 that ascends the left hand side of the wall.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

An excellent first lead. Just be careful getting to that first bolt; it wouldn't be a clean landing.

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