Neon Sunset 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | K. Pogue, C. Dodson, '93 |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Dec 22, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus
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Description This route is the central route up the wall - the second from the left of the fully bolted lines at Magic Bus. Despite the fact that I generally enjoy trad routes more, I found this to be one of the better lines at the cliff, despite being a little over-bolted. Unlike a few of its neighbors, the line is continuous and straight--aesthetic and nice. Perhaps one of the good reasons to hit this cliff on a winter morning. It's also a good warm up.
Climb up the bolted line passing 9 bolts to the anchor up top. At one time the bolt hangers were red, and still may well be.
Protection A set of 11 draws. (9 bolts + anchor)
Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sun...
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Chris Parks follows 'Neon Sunset' (5.8) at the Mag...
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Leading Neon Sunset on a bluebird December day.
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Sending Neon Sunset.
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Having fun.
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onsight leading Neon Sunset
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Cruising through the fun
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By Casey Flynn
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.7
| The Brock and McMillan Guide call this a 5 star classic. I thought it was way overbolted and not that great. A little too much clipping for my liking. Better over than under though, I guess |
By gilbert.2003
From: Burke, VA
Apr 15, 2007
rating: 5.7+
| A bit over bolted but gotta like it when you get it. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 19, 2007
rating: 5.8
| Fun climb and great warm-up. As this was my first sport lead in RR, I was rather thankful for all the bolts. ;-) |
By Christine Gal
From: lake forest, il
Mar 1, 2009
| wow -- don't think I've been on a route with so many bolts in such a short ascend, I nearly z-clipped a couple times... you definitely feel protected on this route.
really fun, warm up climb. someone new on lead might feel right arm getting a little pumped by half way up. it does seem longer than 45' though, especially if you compare it to Technicolor Sunrise.
last links on anchor are getting worn out -- someone needs to cut those two off and be all set with the remaining anchor links. |
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Apr 13, 2009
| 9 bolts spaced 5 feet apart or so. The holds are positive all the way up, with a a few high steps and side pulls for the shorter climber. |
By billdlee
From: las vegas
Apr 29, 2009
| This is really a fun lead. The holds were worn smooth, but still positive. By far the best climb on this wall. |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.8
| On 3/3/10, the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced 6 pro bolts and 2 anchor bolts with 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts, and equipped the new anchor with mussy hooks. The two remaining original bolts are still in good shape.
also, i would note that this is not the left-most of the bolted routes, but rather, the central line up the cliff face. the left most is a 5.9 that ascends the left hand side of the wall. |
By Josh Cameron
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.8-
| An excellent first lead. Just be careful getting to that first bolt; it wouldn't be a clean landing. |
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