Neon Lights  5.11a R

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  [Art Higbee, Jim Erickson, John Ruger, Ed Webster, 1975] Fixed Hardware:  1 Lead Bolt [details] Submitted By:  Tony B on Aug 6, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Near the crux.

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Description 

The first pitch (5.10b) is mostly a matter of commitment if you are 6'0" or taller. At 5'10, the move starts getting 'big.' The gear is only so-so and requires the leader to trust some odd holds. The climbing gets easier after the big move, but the gear does not get good for a while. Rossiter said this is "unprotectable." I disagree, but will admit that the gear is a little iffy. The second pitch (5.11a) is a blast. Tape up, take 2 sets of cams and enjoy the ride.

Protection 

The protection on the "rarely done" first pitch crux is a poor pink or red tricam above some nuts that are lower down. The second pitch, which is easily reached without doing the first can be protected with a few bolts and hand-sized cams.