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Near the crux.
The first pitch (5.10b) is mostly a matter of commitment if you are 6'0" or taller. At 5'10, the move starts getting 'big.' The gear is only so-so and requires the leader to trust some odd holds. The climbing gets easier after the big move, but the gear does not get good for a while. Rossiter said this is "unprotectable." I disagree, but will admit that the gear is a little iffy. The second pitch (5.11a) is a blast. Tape up, take 2 sets of cams and enjoy the ride.
The protection on the "rarely done" first pitch crux is a poor pink or red tricam above some nuts that are lower down. The second pitch, which is easily reached without doing the first can be protected with a few bolts and hand-sized cams.
By Chris Dawson
From: Denver, CO
Jul 18, 2002
After pulling the roof on the first pitch, it is very easy to move left onto Sunset Boulevard (just after the crux) and enjoy the steep huecoed climbing on that pitch.
By David A. Turner
May 26, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
2nd pitch: great pro (including a #3 1/2 Camalot), super fun, very steep.