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Unsorted Routes:

Nemo's Nemesis 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Skip Harper and Zac Thomas, 1997
Page Views: 305
Submitted By: Sean K. Smith on May 11, 2011
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Description 

This route has 3 types of "holds": small crystal clusters that fit 1 finger pad, medium crystal clusters that fit 2 finger pads, and "jugs" that fit 3 finger pads. From an undercut ledge, sketch your feet onto the slab using 2-pad crystal clusters. Pinch crystals the rest of the way up the slab.


Location 

Just to the right of Captain Nemo is a ponderosa pine and giant block that forms a ledge. Scramble onto the block and follow the line of bolts up the slab.


Protection 

Quickdraws.



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By Skip Harper
Feb 15, 2013

Put in by Skip Harper and Zac Thomas in 1997, the difficulty of the start seems proportional to the climber's height. Zac is 6'4" and cruised it. Luebben (6'3") rated it 12a/b a week later, commenting 'the start is the crux'. Shorter climbers will no doubt find it more problematical. A moderately long route sustained on crystal pinching and toes.