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Unsorted Routes:

Nemo's Nemesis 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Skip Harper and Zac Thomas, 1997
Page Views: 153
Submitted By: Sean K. Smith on May 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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In the mid-route crux (had to bail here in fact).

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Nemo's Nemesis has thin, technical, sustained slab climbing up a clean face.

From an undercut ledge, sketch your feet onto the slab using 2-pad crystal clusters. Pinch crystals the rest of the way up the slab.

Location 

Just to the right of Captain Nemo is a ponderosa pine and giant block that forms a ledge. Scramble onto the block and follow the line of bolts up the slab.

Protection 

Quickdraws.


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By Skip Harper
Feb 15, 2013

Put in by Skip Harper and Zac Thomas in 1997, the difficulty of the start seems proportional to the climber's height. Zac is 6'4" and cruised it. Luebben (6'3") rated it 12a/b a week later, commenting 'the start is the crux'. Shorter climbers will no doubt find it more problematical. A moderately long route sustained on crystal pinching and toes.
By bart cubrich 1
Jun 22, 2016
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route is nothing to be afraid of. It is very hard slab climbing (I could take my hand off at most points because all my weight was on my feet). There is a bolt almost every 5 feet. 12 bolts in all I think.
By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Jul 31, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Fantastic, well-protected, and sustained. When it's steep, the holds are bigger. When it's less steep, the holds are smaller!

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