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In the mid-route crux (had to bail here in fact).
This route has 3 types of "holds": small crystal clusters that fit 1 finger pad, medium crystal clusters that fit 2 finger pads, and "jugs" that fit 3 finger pads. From an undercut ledge, sketch your feet onto the slab using 2-pad crystal clusters. Pinch crystals the rest of the way up the slab.
Just to the right of Captain Nemo
is a ponderosa pine and giant block that forms a ledge. Scramble onto the block and follow the line of bolts up the slab.
By Skip Harper
Feb 15, 2013
Put in by Skip Harper and Zac Thomas in 1997, the difficulty of the start seems proportional to the climber's height. Zac is 6'4" and cruised it. Luebben (6'3") rated it 12a/b a week later, commenting 'the start is the crux'. Shorter climbers will no doubt find it more problematical. A moderately long route sustained on crystal pinching and toes.
By bart cubrich 1
4 days ago
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This route is nothing to be afraid of. It is very hard slab climbing (I could take my hand off at most points because all my weight was on my feet). There is a bolt almost every 5 feet. 12 bolts in all I think.