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This route has 3 types of "holds": small crystal clusters that fit 1 finger pad, medium crystal clusters that fit 2 finger pads, and "jugs" that fit 3 finger pads. From an undercut ledge, sketch your feet onto the slab using 2-pad crystal clusters. Pinch crystals the rest of the way up the slab.
Just to the right of Captain Nemo is a ponderosa pine and giant block that forms a ledge. Scramble onto the block and follow the line of bolts up the slab.
|Comments on Nemo's Nemesis
|By Skip Harper|
Feb 15, 2013
Put in by Skip Harper and Zac Thomas in 1997, the difficulty of the start seems proportional to the climber's height. Zac is 6'4" and cruised it. Luebben (6'3") rated it 12a/b a week later, commenting 'the start is the crux'. Shorter climbers will no doubt find it more problematical. A moderately long route sustained on crystal pinching and toes.