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Nemo 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Marty Alfred
Page Views: 936
Submitted By: WAGbag on Nov 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Boulder, Co local Curt MacNeill taking the whip on...

Description 

Featuring great rock and consistently interesting moves, Nemo is one of the best single pitch routes in the Potrero. Start off with 2 easy bolts, then climb 2 bolts of 12 minus that take you left and then right, ending at juggy tufas. After resting, make your way up a faint dihedral to a glue-reinforced spike. Some polished edges, a cool gaston pocket, and a crimpy ear lead to a long move right handed that is perhaps the redpoint crux. Try to recover here, then make a very long move that's improbably easy followed by a pocket move to a tufa curtain that's slightly difficult when pumped. From the tufa curtain hang a hard left, making a big cross over on smeary flowstone feet. Carefully climb crimps and tufas a little left of the bolt line to the anchors. Many people skip the last bolt on redpoint. Enjoy!



Location 

just right of Surfer Rosa

Protection 

10 bolts


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By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Dec 22, 2011

Featuring great rock and consistently interesting moves, Nemo is one of the best single pitch routes in the Potrero. Start off with 2 easy bolts, then climb 2 bolts of 12 minus that take you left and then right, ending at juggy tufas. After resting, make your way up a faint dihedral to a glue-reinforced spike. Some polished edges, a cool gaston pocket, and a crimpy ear lead to a long move right handed that is perhaps the redpoint crux. Try to recover here, then make a very long move that's improbably easy followed by a pocket move to a tufa curtain that's slightly difficult when pumped. From the tufa curtain hang a hard left, making a big cross over on smeary flowstone feet. Carefully climb crimps and tufas a little left of the bolt line to the anchors. Many people skip the last bolt on redpoint. Enjoy!
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 26, 2012

I had heard that Surfer Rosa and Nemo were the same grade and after spending time on both I would 100 percent argue that Nemo is considerably harder than Surfer Rosa. Nemo is much more bouldery, the holds are certainly not as positive as you want them to be and this route lacks and really rests after the fourth bolt. Great route though with some super sick moves and for sure has a little bit of spice to it given that some of the clips are difficult to make. Overall a great route and a must do 13 for Potrero. Looks like I have an open project for when I come back to Potrero next year.......