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This was my first V4 and I still love doing it every time I visit the warm up cave. Thankfully it feels a bit easier now than that first time!
Start on the obvious left facing flake in the center of the wall. Make some fun moves up the flake to two crimps then a tougher move to the sidepull (or gaston) and one more tricky move to the top.
And avoid good holds out right for full value.
- Beta* - If you are having trouble getting the sidepull, consider getting clever with the flake and your right heel (worked for me at least).
Center of warm up cave, big left facing flake.
Pad or two.
Alex going for it
BETA PHOTO: Chris figuring out his crazy foot beta on Neil's L...
Hitting the sidepull
BETA PHOTO: Back step with your right heel before you head out...
Keith back a few years ago
May 20, 2013
rating: V3+ 6a+
A few fun variations on Niels lunge that also might be worth doing:
a) Climb up cave warm up (the V0 to the right of Neil's) to the big jug, then traverse left through the horizontal crack and finish up Neil's lunge. (V2)
b) Starting on the start hold of cave warm up, move directly out left using a big, enjoyable layback to establish on the start to Neils. (V4)