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Horseshead
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Neighsayer 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 225'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: J. Hill, D. Rhode, 1994.
Page Views: 1,330
Submitted By: s.kimball on Mar 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Start of Neighsayer starts in the right facing cor...

Description 

This is an outstanding trad route to a classic Colorado summit.

P1. Start in a right-facing dihedral with a clean handcrack to a small roof at 25 feet, 5.9. Best to traverse left some 50 feet up into a cool but blocky chimney. Belay on a nice ledge on the left, 120 feet.

P2. Do a great 5.10 finger/hand in a right-facing dihedral, then huff up the hand to OW 5.10-, #4 Camalot or bigger, then onto the summit block finish, 100 feet.

Scramble off to the east.


Location 

This is the steep, main line dropping from the OW forming the Horseshead's east ear.


Protection 

Standard to #4 cam with extra #3 cam.



Photos of Neighsayer Slideshow Add Photo
Brian on the first pitch.
Brian on the first pitch.
Lew jamming the horse's head on Neighsayer....
Lew jamming the horse's head on Neighsayer....
At the first belay anchor.  Kevin and Lew.
At the first belay anchor. Kevin and Lew.
Comments on Neighsayer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sarah Fritz
Apr 18, 2012

HI everybody,

Does anyone know who is developing this area (The Horse's Head) and The Three Jewels? We just moved up to Storm Mountain last year and are thrilled to find Palisade Mountain. Does anyone know if there are any routes just East of the Horse's Head, besides the Temple of Tao? What about the rock face near the summit, up the second gully on the way to the Horse's Head? Does anyone know of climbers who live up on Storm Mountain?
Thanks,
Sarah Fritz

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 19, 2012

Look at who is responsible for the FAs of the routes there, and it might tell you.
Obviously, the submitter of the routes seems to know something too....

By 1rsties4life
From: CO
Mar 29, 2014

No need to scramble off anymore. A couple of years ago I installed a bolted anchor on a good ledge just to the climber's right of the summit. Now 2 raps gets you back to the ground.