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Negro Girls 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Roy McClenahan and others,1988
Page Views: 1,953
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Nov 9, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This is the first route to the right of Walk on the Wild Side and, in my opinion, superior to it. It's runout a bit - particularily getting to the first bolt, but that only adds to the interesting character of the route. I've led in three or four times.

Protection 

P1) 4 bolts to bolted anchor/rap P2) 2 bolts to bolted anchor/rap


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 7, 2016
By Woody Stark
Oct 11, 2004

I'd like to make a modification to my description above: this route is only one pitch. I've always continued up to the ledge system where the routes to the left finish. If you do the "second pitch", tis a bit run out since there's no pro. As you approach the ledge, veering right is about 5.7; and the further left you go, the rating goes up. Considering the run out is about a hundred feet or so, it's quite stimulating. This "second pitch" situation exists because I didn't bother to check the guide before I climbed it the first time. Actually, not checking the guide adds a whole new aspect to climbing.
By The Gray Tradster
Mar 29, 2009

Woody found the two bolts on the second pitch last year, with a little help.

They are a bit right of what looks from the belay like the logical line and hard to see. Not that suprising considering that the first one is at least 50 ft out.
By Luis Orozco
From: Covina, CA
Jan 17, 2012

accidentally combined this with walk on the wild side thought is made the route better
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jan 14, 2013

The route was bolted by Kurt Smith on lead while Roy McClanahan was free soloing. Roy came over to talk to Kurt and then continued on up the line, thus snaking it essentially. Later on Roy felt kind of like a jerk for doing that, so he waited for Kurt to finish the upper pitches and so let him get the FA so to speak.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Aug 15, 2014

Poorly named route.
By Brian Chastain
Oct 27, 2014

There are some manky spinning button heads on this thing. Got my attention as one was clinking in the wind up against the rock prior to clipping it. I traversed in two bolts of it from WOTW and then back left to the first anchors of WOTW. Made it actually WILD! Also the Vogel guide has it at 10b??
By owen david
From: Los Angeles, Ca
Jan 4, 2016

Is there a confederate flag hanging from the anchors of this route?
Did Roy McClenahan think of this name? It really should be reconsidered.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 5, 2016

I think Roy might be African American, so maybe it is ok??
By lou
6 days ago

Great... now we can't say negro... how bout oriental... indian.. french.... get over it... get some hard bark on ya n man up for christ sake..... if u want to ultra pc .. become a politician.. not a climber... or get the tampex out of your climbing pack
By fruitloop
6 days ago

+1 Lou!!
By Shelton Hatfield
5 days ago

Lou, way to be... incredibly sexist. Why alienate women from the climbing world? Maybe you don't even realize that you're doing it, but by implying that having "tampex" (I assume you mean tampax) in your climbing pack makes you a wuss (my interpretation of your comment), you are not insulting the person your jab was aimed at but instead you are insulting ALL WOMEN (the people who might actually have "tampex" in their pack). Not especially surprising from someone who says things like "man up for christ sake". Do you understand that being a man doesn't make you brave/strong/etc, right? And that being a woman doesn't make you cowardly/weak/etc, right? It's hard to tell from your comments. I may get flamed for this, but I hope someone can appreciate my words.

No one said you can't say negro. You can say whatever the hell you want. Some people just make an effort not to be offensive. Others, not so much.
By jezbrochill
5 days ago

+1 Shelton

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