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Neff's Canyon

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Chadbourne Crag 
Cirque of the Toweritas 
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Neff's Canyon  


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Location: 40.672, -111.771 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,132
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Hayley on Oct 24, 2005
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A. Little Buddy 10d B. Half CAb 12b C. The Clam 12...

Description 

There are a bunch of neglected granite walls up in Neff's Canyon that you can camp at. I believe they are mostly trad climbs but there may be some sport.

Getting There 

Neff's Canyon is the canyon exactly South of Millcreek Canyon up in Olympus Cove. There are a few walls not far up the right hand canyon- direction is pretty self-explanatory- and another area up the left hand canyon. To get to the one up the left hand canyon (Chadborne) go up past the grove where the canyon splits to left and right and keep going up until the trail descends. At that point there will be a trail to the right that just looks like a game trail and you follow that trail to the cliffs. A bit of a warning, this trail is steep, switchbacky, and pretty long.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.0 miles from here

17 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',8],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Neff's Canyon:
Little Buddy   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   Chadbourne Crag
Feature Attraction   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Chadbourne Crag
Point Man   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Chadbourne Crag
Vagrant Circle   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Chadbourne Crag
No Man's Land   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 60'   Chadbourne Crag
Half Cab   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   Chadbourne Crag
Slice of Pie   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   Chadbourne Crag
Piston Bully   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   Chadbourne Crag
The Clam   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   Chadbourne Crag
Beam and Coke   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Chadbourne Crag
Tenacious Z   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Chadbourne Crag
Browse More Classics in Neff's Canyon

Featured Route For Neff's Canyon
Working

Beam and Coke 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Chadbourne Crag
This climb has pretty exceptional movement on some steep terrain. The rock on this one is solid. Sinker pockets to the 3rd bolt. From 3rd to 4th bolt is the crux with some powerful moves to reach a good jug rail. From here, it joins Slice of Pie for all of the hard bits on that route....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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