|Original:||Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]|
|Submitted By:||Seth Derr on Nov 7, 2010|
|Comments on Needle to the Vein||Add Comment|
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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 23, 2011
rating: V5+ 6C+
Crimpy, low percentage if done the original way. Utilizes a nice finely grained sidepull sloper. Very satisfying when executed. The original way was to not touch the right arete. It is much more difficult this way. This evolved from the second face hold being a large incut flake, and avoiding the very sloping sidepull entirely. After the flake broke in 2001 leaving a much smaller hold, that method stuck until 2005 or so and instead used a very sloping sidepull with a hard left foot highstep perch.
I understand that all ascents now use the right arete, which makes the problem significantly easier, maybe V2 or V3, but still cool. Most likely the hands do not touch the aforementioned sloping sidepull when using the right arete.
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 26, 2014
rating: V5 6C
|I do not think using the starting hand on the right arete makes this a v2 or v3, that is quite a sandbag. This rig feels harder than Fabulous and Bodysnap stand which are both solid v4's. This problem is stout, it is only two hard moves but catching that small crimp is not a v3 move. I would say this is still v5 maybe a soft v5, but no way is it v2 or v3.|