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Upper Matrix
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Needle to the Vein 
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Year of the Dragon 

Needle to the Vein 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Season: fall/winter/spring
Page Views: 343
Submitted By: Seth Derr on Nov 7, 2010
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Needle to the Vein

Description 

Fun one move wonder near Porcelain. Start on bad hands and a bad foot and make a long move to a not great hold. From there, hit the jug and top out


Location 

When facing Porcelain, this problem starts on the arete of the boulder directly to your left.


Protection 

pad



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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 23, 2011
rating: V5+ 6C+

Crimpy, low percentage if done the original way. Utilizes a nice finely grained sidepull sloper. Very satisfying when executed. The original way was to not touch the right arete. It is much more difficult this way. This evolved from the second face hold being a large incut flake, and avoiding the very sloping sidepull entirely. After the flake broke in 2001 leaving a much smaller hold, that method stuck until 2005 or so and instead used a very sloping sidepull with a hard left foot highstep perch.

I understand that all ascents now use the right arete, which makes the problem significantly easier, maybe V2 or V3, but still cool. Most likely the hands do not touch the aforementioned sloping sidepull when using the right arete.