|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Dennis Oakeshott,Bruce Morris, Peter Mayfield, 1975.|
|Submitted By:||Blitzo on Sep 28, 2006|
|Comments on Needle Spoon||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
I remember it being very well bolted for a Tuolumne face route. Excellent climbing and will challenge any concept you have of friction.
Also....so not a sport route!! Take that blemish of a label off this fantastic route!
From: Oakland CA
Sep 12, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good route with two quality pitches. We soloed the first pitch, which had a move or two of 5.6, a crack, to a bolted anchor.
I thought p2 might be harder because it was more continuous. p3 is the technical one move crux. The entire climb is well bolted except for two 30 foot runouts after the crux on much easier ground (5.7 and below.) We rapped from the top of 3, didn't do the lower angle stuff above.
Fun route, well protected, give it a go!
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Sep 9, 2012
|Has this route received some retro-bolts? I pretty sure I clipped more than 5 bolts on the 5.9+ pitch.|
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Jul 27, 2014
|Think there were always 7 bolts on the first hard pitch.|
By Justin Johnsen
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 29, 2014
|Thanks, changed the bolt count on pitch 2 of the description to 7.|