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A line of climbers on "Needle Spoon".
Photo by Bli...
Starts from third class ledges, up and left from the "Dike Route".
Climb past 5 bolts to a two bolt belay.
Follow 5 bolts passing a 5.10a bulge to a two bolt anchor.
Run out 5.6 (no pro) to another two bolt anchor.
Move up and right to the base of a steep corner.
Descend 3rd and 4th class to the right.
For more complete information, get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.
Eric Collins following the money pitch on Needle S...
BETA PHOTO: Needle and Spoon topo
Dec 5, 2007
Love this route! Careful of rope drag when you go past the crux on to the run out face. Best bet is to back clean the bolts under the over hang/buldge so the line doesn't pull you back.
|By Greg DeMatteo|
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.10- PG13
I remember it being very well bolted for a Tuolumne face route. Excellent climbing and will challenge any concept you have of friction.
Also....so not a sport route!! Take that blemish of a label off this fantastic route!
From: Oakland CA
Sep 12, 2008
Good route with two quality pitches. We soloed the first pitch, which had a move or two of 5.6, a crack, to a bolted anchor.
I thought p2 might be harder because it was more continuous. p3 is the technical one move crux. The entire climb is well bolted except for two 30 foot runouts after the crux on much easier ground (5.7 and below.) We rapped from the top of 3, didn't do the lower angle stuff above.
Fun route, well protected, give it a go!
|By Bryan G|
Sep 9, 2012
Has this route received some retro-bolts? I pretty sure I clipped more than 5 bolts on the 5.9+ pitch.