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Needle & Spoon 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dennis Oakeshott,Bruce Morris, Peter Mayfield,1975.
Page Views: 2,044
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: Needle and Spoon topo

Description 

Starts from third class ledges, up and left from the "Dike Route".
Climb past 5 bolts to a two bolt belay.
Follow 7 bolts passing a 5.10a bulge to a two bolt anchor.
Run out 5.6 (no pro) to another two bolt anchor.
Move up and right to the base of a steep corner.
Descend 3rd and 4th class to the right.

Location 

For more complete information, get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.

Protection 

Draws.


Photos of Needle & Spoon Slideshow Add Photo
A line of climbers on "Needle & Spoon". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
A line of climbers on "Needle & Spoon". ...
Eric Collins following the money pitch on Needle & Spoon.
Eric Collins following the money pitch on Needle &...

Comments on Needle & Spoon Add Comment
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By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I remember it being very well bolted for a Tuolumne face route. Excellent climbing and will challenge any concept you have of friction.


Also....so not a sport route!! Take that blemish of a label off this fantastic route!
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 12, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good route with two quality pitches. We soloed the first pitch, which had a move or two of 5.6, a crack, to a bolted anchor.

I thought p2 might be harder because it was more continuous. p3 is the technical one move crux. The entire climb is well bolted except for two 30 foot runouts after the crux on much easier ground (5.7 and below.) We rapped from the top of 3, didn't do the lower angle stuff above.

Fun route, well protected, give it a go!
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Sep 9, 2012

Has this route received some retro-bolts? I pretty sure I clipped more than 5 bolts on the 5.9+ pitch.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Jul 27, 2014

Think there were always 7 bolts on the first hard pitch.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 29, 2014

Thanks, changed the bolt count on pitch 2 of the description to 7.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Sep 19, 2014

For the record:

We actually named the route, "Needle & Spoon", based on these lyrics of a song by Savoy Brown:

"I sleep with the sun,
And I rise with the moon,
But I feel alright with my needle and spoon"

It's been getting misnamed in the guidebooks ever since, but this is the true story behind the name. Honest Injun!