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VHS or Beta 

Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe Desimone, 1994?
Page Views: 332
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 16, 2010
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Needle Haven, near the end of the easier start.

Description 

Despite the intimidating name, Needle Haven is a great moderate line that would be an over-chalked, highly polished classic if it were in a more popular setting. One of the better 5.10s at The Gym, this is a great warm up option if you don't mind hacking a bit further through the weeds.

Begin up the steep slab that is fortunately quite a bit easier than that of its neighbor. After the initial low-angle warmup section, the angle steepens and the climbing becomes more intense. A brief, near-blank section, just right of the "Armstrong Express" dihedral, leads to big holds over the final, steep bulge.


Location 

It is immediately right of "The Armstrong Express".


Protection 

Red, angle-iron, bolt hangers to 2 BA.



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By Joe Desimone
Jul 22, 2013

Actually Carrie Robertson had no involvement in developing this line. I began to take notice of route potential on this wall while climbing Prophets Of Rage (summer of 1994 if memory serves). The following summer I cleaned, bolted, and FA'd this route with the intent of calling it "Fallen Prophet" as a tribute to Kurt's route that collapsed in the spring from heavy rains. The current name seems appropriate considering the huge prickly pear cactus patch at the bottom. During the route development it required that I pack in a garden rake to clean out a spot large enough to allow climbers a needle-free access to the start. What a nasty chore, but in the end it was worth it.
Joe Desimone - Summer 2013