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Need to interview people who have ice climbing experience
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By Davis Stevenson
From Flagstaff, Arizona
Mar 3, 2013
Following up a new route out in the Mojave Desert.  Info coming soon maybe?  Fun 5.10 hands and fingers.
doligo wrote:
You will have to make magnets big in order for them to stay put, i.e. super heavy. Hell no, I'm walking around with 2 pieces of metal on soles of my boots if I don't have to.


Not necessarily. Neodymium magnets have an immense strength to weight ratio. I had a bass cab that I gigged with, blew the speakers. Replaced them with Neodymium magnet speakers to cut down on weight. One 7 oz Neodymium magnet was equivalent to a 40 oz magnet of more traditional materials.

These pull at 90 lbs:

magnet4less.com/product_info.p...

If it snapped into some kind of socket, and had more magnetic material on the crampon, then it would be q pretty damn strong connection.

However, I still see the weight being high to get a solid connection.

What about using the magnets to lock in a more mechanical socket system? Think like an SPD system with some sort of magnetic lock or release with a convoluted release that couldn't happen by walking? Using small powerful magnets to actuate a lock would be sweet and would rely on a physical connection instead of just magnets.

EDIT:

Even a 1" diameter disk about as thick as two stacked coins would give 10lbs pull force-- enough to guide things into place.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Mar 3, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
It still seems that the shearing strength of my crampon kicking would dislodge any kind of magnetic attachment. Pull might be strong, but the perpendicular movement of the kick vs. the magnet pull seems to be in question for staying on the boot.

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By doligo
Mar 3, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
Mike Lai wrote:
I have one more question. Why there is no manufacture selling their own crampons and boots? Like an exclusive. Is it because people love to switch their gears?



Montrail used to make them. They had a whole system - boot, crampon, gaiter. They were not much of a hit...

FLAG
By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Mar 3, 2013
Mike Lai wrote:
I have one more question. Why there is no manufacture selling their own crampons and boots? Like an exclusive. Is it because people love to switch their gears?


Not to be a dick, but common you're a product design student at Art Center (masters or undergrad?). You can't think of a even a few reasons?

1. Boot fit
2. Performance of those/ other crampons
3. Brand loyalties/ Preferring a brand

Just to name a few.

Just like a few others have said using magnets for location rather than securement would work much better.

FLAG
By WillP
Mar 4, 2013
.
Gee, you Americans are either super-polite, or kinda dim. Mate, I see a whole bunch of problems with your 'magnetic crampons' idea. First of all, you've based the concept on a single vid of some guy's crampon coming off while climbing. Second - what is most climbing hardware made of? How are you going to prevent these magnets, which are gonna have to be super-strong, from grabbing 'biners on draws as you climb past? Awesome, now you've got a sling wrapped around your crampon. What about press-studs or buckles on gaiters? They catch, you trip... not too much of a problem on flat ground, but if you're on a knife edge ridge... see ya. And, as one person mentioned, the weight. Boots and crampons are heavy enough - what are you going to remove, other than the current lightweight attachment systems, that'll make up for your metal magnet system? You're doing what BD have done with the Magnetron 'biner - a solution for a problem that doesn't exist.

I also see a problem with the neoprene pad in the seat-of-pants idea. It'll make you look like you've got a big butt. Otherwise I reckon it's a great idea.

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By Davis Stevenson
From Flagstaff, Arizona
Mar 4, 2013
Following up a new route out in the Mojave Desert.  Info coming soon maybe?  Fun 5.10 hands and fingers.
WillP wrote:
How are you going to prevent these magnets, which are gonna have to be super-strong, from grabbing 'biners on draws as you climb past?



Think, man... 'what is most climbing gear made of'

Carabiners, cams, etc won't be attracted to magnets.... Unless you make draws out of steel biners.

However, ice screws definitely would... And if you had 90 lbs of neodymium plate magnet forces on your shoe, a loose ice screw could go flying into your foot.

Interesting ideas, but I think the best use would be a magnetic assist to some king of mechanical locking system similar to clipless pedals.


EDIT: Forgot about ice screws being steel (D'OH)

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By Mike Lai
Mar 4, 2013
Thanks guys! Actually, my inspiration is from bike's pedal. At first, I was thinking using whole magnet for attaching. Now, I think it is not practical, so it will be just for assisting to locate the position. I consider using titanium as crampons's frame, which is not magnetic and lightweight. My target user will be waterfall ice climber.

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