Neda  5.11+

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.11+ [details] FA:  Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant, July 2009 New Route:  Yes Season:  Typical of Empire in general Submitted By:  Richard M. Wright on Jul 13, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Neda, whose full name is Neda and The Time of Light, was named for Neda Agha-Soltan a new voice for freedom and democracy in Iran. She was murdered by soldiers of the Iranian government at a protest march on the 21st of June, 2009. Hopefully, her murder will mark the beginning of the end of repression in Iran. To the repressive forces in Iran we would say this: murder of the innocent, your own brothers and sisters, shows to the world that your time is drawing to a close and the clock is ticking. So, to paraphrase, ask not for whom the clock is ticking. It is ticking for thee.

Neda climbs the clean bulletproof left side of the West face. A tricky entry sequence gives way to more moderate climbing leading to a ledge at 50ft. Crux climbing comes off the ledge in a left-facing dihedral that remains difficult for approximately 20 ft. The final sequence follows an arete on juggy holds. Rock quality on Neda is excellent overall, although the ledge knocks a star off the rating for breaking up the continuity (the shake-out however is well appreciated !!).

Location 

West face of the East Buttress. Left side. Approach via one of the right side routes in The Lair, Mammary Lane or Tap Line.

Protection 

About a dozen draws and a 60 meter rope.