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 ADVANCED
Second Grotto Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back Scratcher Start T 
Lower Plaque Nose T 
Necronomicom Direct T 
on ramp, The T 
Plaque Right T 

Necronomicom Direct 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Greg Davis, Steve Shea, 1977
Page Views: 538
Submitted By: Jay Brown on Aug 27, 2007

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Description 

This is the pumpy, overhanging, hand crack after the 1st pitch of "Necronomicom". It has good jams and exposure!


Location 

Climb first pitch of Necro, then out of the ledge belay climb up 10' and head out right up the overhanging, hand crack, secret agent holds are also inside the crack. It will clean up better with travel. Rap other routes or walk down right.


Protection 

Double set of cams #0.5-#3, TCUs, natural tree belay on top slab.



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By steve shea
Jun 17, 2011

This pitch was first climbed by me and Greg Davis in 1977. We called it Necronomicon Direct. As described, it goes up an overhanging hand crack. We rated it 5.10d or 5.11. All good pro nothing fixed. It is not 666 Variation, sorry. I was also on the FA of the first pitch with Lou Dawson. Steve Shea.

By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Jun 23, 2011

Sure didn't know. Harder exit for sure. Looks like a mission to correct a lot of pass routes in this database fo' sho'.