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Necessity of a hard shell?



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By BryanV
From Fort Collins, CO
Oct 16, 2011
Ouray Ice Park

As i have said before i definitely agree on the softshell. I have a Haglofs Savage and love it. I take my 725 fill down jacket for belaying and always bring my shell, Westcomb eVent, just in case it starts dumping snow.

As for gloves i take about 4 pairs when i go ice climbing (Colorado). I have a pair of BD Legends for super cold belaying, BD Torques or Deviants for mixed, BD Kingpins for variable conditions and BD Punishers for cold climbing. I also have some Mountain Hardwear power stretch gloves that go under a pair of OR shells for heavy duty belaying.

Hope this helps.

bv
www.whiteknuckled.com


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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Oct 17, 2011
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH

Thanks Brian, you've been extremely helpful.

I think I'll probably end up with Punishers and an extra liner for super cold days, as well as a soft-shell, or warmer weather glove for the better weather days.


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Oct 17, 2011
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

just buy your gear off here, or geartrade ebay etc. Never spend 300-400 ona hardshell that you can buy in good condition for around $100 on this forum.

Get a lightweight packable one for those what if situations.

I wear a hardshell bib (arcteryx Alpha SV)..which the bib part is softshell., over a midweight bottom and top, with a patagonia r1, and whatever softshell I am testing that day (I have too many good ones at this point). I almost never put on my hardshell top (it is nice to have when it turns into a wet whiteout though )

I do mostly mountaineering around mt. washington and adirondacks, but a lot of ice climbing too, and I never wet out, overheat, or get soaked.


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Oct 17, 2011
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/10/alpine-uniform-aka-action-s>>>

danes post on his action suit, is prob all you need to know fyi.


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Oct 17, 2011
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

another great article.

www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3533


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By jack roberts
Oct 17, 2011

Jace,

I retreat all my softshells with the Nikwax Softshell Proof. you can spray it on the clean garment and then throw it in the dryer on high heat to secure the treatment for a longer period of time OR you can get the wash-in treatment which permeates the fabric better.

I usually wash treat the garments at the beginning of ice season and maybe one more time or as needed. Works great.


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By Copperhead
Oct 17, 2011

Brendan Blanchard wrote:
Thanks Brian, you've been extremely helpful. I think I'll probably end up with Punishers and an extra liner for super cold days, as well as a soft-shell, or warmer weather glove for the better weather days.

The punishers are pretty form fitting (and should be for best climbing performance) so you might not like having a liner. The best backup to climbing gloves is a mitten or heavy belay glove that you use while not climbing. The climbing gloves go inside your coat while belaying.

Edit: Added benefit is that you don't destroy your climbing gloves belaying.


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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Oct 18, 2011
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH

Thanks copper, I'm thinking about the Patrol mittens for a belay glove/other uses, and the punishers for climbing, maybe a lighter weight glove later on for warmer days/good conditions.


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Oct 18, 2011

If you climb in the North East, two things you'll noticed quickly on a lot of climbers and guides.
1. Patagonia Mixed Master soft shell pants. These pants are perfect for North East.
2. Kinco work gloves. They are the perfect belay gloves at $10 a pair. Should last you a season of climbing and skiing.


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By Siberia
From Birmingham, AL
Oct 18, 2011

For anyone who is actually interested in a hardshell, I have two Westcomb Mirage jackets in the For Sale section, just search for Westcomb and they will pop up. Sorry for the shameless plug


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By doligo
Oct 18, 2011
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

If you climb in the NE, hardshell top with pitzips and softshell pants. I got rid of all my softshell jackets FWIW. Even when it's -40 in New England you can always find dripping water.

Come to think of it, I upgraded my pants to hardshell bibs as well! Got tired of wearing a rim of ice on me.


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By iceman777
From Colorado Springs
Nov 18, 2011

I have 800 dollars tied up in a hard shell jacket and pants and have never worn ether for ice climbing ,I agree w Jack that out here in Colorado you really dont need hardshells and ive climbed in Oura(camp bird area)when its dripping water, rapped off in my ice crusted suit and been fine .But then again maybe im just a tough old bastard?

I do however treat my softshells at the beginning of every season....

I like my softshells for everything , If its running that much water I just climb someplace else or go homeI have a superlight waterproofshell that packs down like a burrito that stays in the bottom of my pack for rainy days, But ive yet to use it.

As for gloves I really like the Flylow gloves, they look like work gloves have a full leather palm n fingers a baked in waterproofing that lasts and lasts and lasts and are lightly lined. For really cold days I add a light weight liner glove and BAM! no worries ...

I have no problems working with gear while wearing the flylow gloves even with a light weight liner and for rapelling/belaying/holding onto ice tools they give me better controll as there slightly tacky .

The BEST PART IS .........THERE ONLY 28.00 BUCKS!!!!!!!!

I will never again pay 80 plus dollars for Black Garbage or other gloves that only last a season if your lucky


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By suuntout
Mar 4, 2012

i have climbed with hardshell and soft shell and would say whichever you buy make sure it has a hood. I prefer the softshell, i wear a gamma mx and love it. unless you are climbing in the rain, heavy wet snow or really warm conditions i would stick with the soft shell


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