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Evil Pillar
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Hanzo,Sword of justice  T 
Mental Games Chimney S 
Necessary Evil S 
Route of All Evil S 

Necessary Evil 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall, Summer early am or late afternoon
Page Views: 3,843
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: I am standing at the base, checking out the route....

Description 

Climbs the obvious overhanging sculpted arete using balancey moves down low which lead to the upper section of jugs. If this thing went for another hundred feet or so it would be an all-time classic.

Location 

Around and right from Route of All Evil on the east face of the formation.

Protection 

5 bolts, anchors


Photos of Necessary Evil Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Williams up high, working Necessary Evil.
Mike Williams up high, working Necessary Evil.
Lisa Pritchett on Necessary Evil 5.10b, High Deser...
Lisa Pritchett on Necessary Evil 5.10b, High Deser...
Nathan Fitzhugh 4-2-11
Nathan Fitzhugh 4-2-11
Everyone has to try this
Everyone has to try this
Start of necessary evil
Start of necessary evil
Nathan Fitzhugh 4-2-11
Nathan Fitzhugh 4-2-11
Adam Paz I believe this is the crux as you have to...
Adam Paz I believe this is the crux as you have to...
Working Necessary evil
Working Necessary evil
Nathan Fitzhugh 4-2-11
Nathan Fitzhugh 4-2-11
From the top, down!
From the top, down!

Comments on Necessary Evil Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Oct 31, 2009

I'd recomend climbing up from the back and then reaching around and clipping the second bolt and then lowering off and then starting the climb like a stick clip. Also this one is a pain to clean, I'd have a buddy TR/Follow clean it.
By Steve Ziemer
From: Monrovia, CA
Feb 10, 2012

I've been climbing here for some time now and was wondering is there a Falcon Guide to all the routes in Apple Valley, Horsemans Center? The lackies at 5.10 outlet, Redlands, have no idea. Can you help?
By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Feb 18, 2012

Have not seen a Falcon guide Steve. But there is a Southern California Sport Climbing guide that covers this area.
By Countzen
From: Santa Monica, CA
Jan 26, 2015

There are 6 bolts on here now, doesn't change the difference at all. I think there's one new one at the top so it's not such a runout to anchors.

OR one at the bottom so you don't accidently slip to your death before doing the move. Not sure... but there is now 6 bolts/hangers.

Pretty cool climb, first time I had to use a toe hook on a 10b.

Also a biaaaaaaatch to clean.. got more scratches up swinging around than actually climbing.
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