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Evil Pillar
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Hanzo,Sword of justice  T 
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Necessary Evil S 
Route of All Evil S 

Necessary Evil 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall, Summer early am or late afternoon
Page Views: 4,565
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Working Necessary evil

Description 

Climbs the obvious overhanging sculpted arete using balancey moves down low which lead to the upper section of jugs. If this thing went for another hundred feet or so it would be an all-time classic.

Location 

Around and right from Route of All Evil on the east face of the formation.

Protection 

5 bolts, anchors


Photos of Necessary Evil Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: I am standing at the base, checking out the route....
BETA PHOTO: I am standing at the base, checking out the route....
Rock Climbing Photo: Nathan Fitzhugh 4-2-11
Nathan Fitzhugh 4-2-11
Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa Pritchett on Necessary Evil 5.10b, High Deser...
Lisa Pritchett on Necessary Evil 5.10b, High Deser...
Rock Climbing Photo: Everyone has to try this
Everyone has to try this
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Williams up high, working Necessary Evil.
Mike Williams up high, working Necessary Evil.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of necessary evil
Start of necessary evil
Rock Climbing Photo: Nathan Fitzhugh 4-2-11
Nathan Fitzhugh 4-2-11
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Paz I believe this is the crux as you have to...
Adam Paz I believe this is the crux as you have to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nathan Fitzhugh 4-2-11
Nathan Fitzhugh 4-2-11
Rock Climbing Photo: From the top, down!
From the top, down!

Comments on Necessary Evil Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Oct 31, 2009

I'd recomend climbing up from the back and then reaching around and clipping the second bolt and then lowering off and then starting the climb like a stick clip. Also this one is a pain to clean, I'd have a buddy TR/Follow clean it.
By Steve Ziemer
From: Monrovia, CA
Feb 10, 2012

I've been climbing here for some time now and was wondering is there a Falcon Guide to all the routes in Apple Valley, Horsemans Center? The lackies at 5.10 outlet, Redlands, have no idea. Can you help?
By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Feb 18, 2012

Have not seen a Falcon guide Steve. But there is a Southern California Sport Climbing guide that covers this area.
By Countzen
From: Santa Monica, CA
Jan 26, 2015

There are 6 bolts on here now, doesn't change the difference at all. I think there's one new one at the top so it's not such a runout to anchors.

OR one at the bottom so you don't accidently slip to your death before doing the move. Not sure... but there is now 6 bolts/hangers.

Pretty cool climb, first time I had to use a toe hook on a 10b.

Also a biaaaaaaatch to clean.. got more scratches up swinging around than actually climbing.
By Jack C. Beckley
From: arcadia ca
Nov 4, 2015

Pretty awesome climb!! it is really hard to clean...what i did was just untie, ran the rope through the rap rings, tied back in and then had my belayer lower me. When he was lowering i clipped a draw to my harness and the belay line which brought me down perfect to every clip. This is probably the best way to do it, if you aren't going to have someone follow/TR the route.
One of the best climbs for the grade in the area tho!
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux
At the crux
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 14, 2016

Pretty cool route and steep for the grade. Great clipping stances and didn't find the need to stick clip or any shenanigans.

Speaking of shenanigans.... lowering through the anchor IMO should be avoided. This area (like most) does not see regular anchor replacement so it's up to us as climbers to be better stewards.

If cleaning is a hassle and you don't have a partner to clean the draws consider a second lap, cleaning it up the second time.

Another method for tricky cleans is similar to what [Jack] did but without lowering through the chains. Feed the rope through the chains and have your belayer ANCHOR the end going through the draws You can single line rap using the free end. If it's wonky, steep or traveling to an extreme side (like the route here) you can still clip your harness into the lead side rope to guide you through the bolt-line. The benefit is you're not creating any wear on the anchor above. This is handy to have in your tool-shed of skills when cleaning tough routes, those with bad or low angle top outs, scabby rock..... it will save not only wear on the anchors but the life of your rope.

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