This spectacular route is located pretty much where the trail meets the wall on the Optimator. It is just right of a short tower and shares a start with Hayduke Lives aka. Hayutake. It follows a huge right facing corner system for 100 ft. to a 3 bolt anchor with slings. There is a plaque.
Start out with a low angled shallow hand and finger crack to a large horizontal flake, a lieback move gets you to a ledge at about 20 ft. (.75 to #1 camalot)From the ledge climb 15 ft. of stem box with tips crack on either side. (small TCUs) Above the stem box climb a tight hands corner up to a small roof for about 25 ft. (#0.75 to #1 Camalot) Above the roof climb perfect hands in a corner for 30 ft. (mostly #2 Camalots, 1 #3) Just below the anchor pull the crux roof/bulge. (#2 Camalot)
Small TCUs up to #3 Camalot, extra #2 and #3s.
Me on Neat.
the whole route
Amanda leading Neat
Haines showing perfect technique.
Katie Sheehan belaying Max Rodatz
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great route on a great wall. My gear: blue and yellow aliens for the start, 2x0.75 Camalots, 2x#1 Camalots, 4x#2 Camalots, and 4x#3 Camalots. The blue Camalots are a little tight midway through the final crack. The roof pinches back down to #2 Camalot size right before the chains.
|By Dave Brock|
May 19, 2008
Probably one of the BEST 5.10's that I have ever done. High quality rock, excellent gear placements...And fun route. Highly recommend it as a warm up route for other Optimator Wall routes.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009
How does this thing only get 2.5 stars!?!? Get past the initial sandy ramp and into a stellar corner. Hands for the most part. Great route!
|By T. Gittins|
Jan 30, 2011
would have to agree...better than 2.5 stars...exciting roof near the chains
From: San Juans, CO
Mar 19, 2012
FA Casey Yorkunas
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
#3 friends are the best fit for this corner instead of baggy 2 camalots or tight 3 camalot.