Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Optimator
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 
90 proof T 
Annunaki T 
Backside Luge T 
Baroque T 
Beer Run T 
Bow Flex T 
Brodie Machine T 
Casey's Route T 
Charlie's Pillar T 
Chick Flick T 
Choss Eliminate TR 
Ditch 'em T 
Double Bock T 
Gunning For Gonzo T 
Hayutake T 
Hefe Weissen T 
Jews On Crack T 
Jive Crack T 
Kitchen Sink T 
Lady Pillar T 
Long Island Iced Ted T 
Miller Genuine Draft T 
Mudslide T 
Neat T 
Optimator T 
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 
Ram Implosion Wing T 
Road Soda T 
Sardikar T 
Season of the Worm, The T 
Soul Fire T 
St. Pauli Girl T 
Two Scoops T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed 11+ T 
Unnamed on Charlie's Pillar T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Charlotte Fox and partner
Page Views: 3,524
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 24, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (148)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Jackie leading Neat, nearing the roof crux

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This spectacular route is located pretty much where the trail meets the wall on the Optimator. It is just right of a short tower and shares a start with Hayduke Lives aka. Hayutake. It follows a huge right facing corner system for 100 ft. to a 3 bolt anchor with slings. There is a plaque.

Start out with a low angled shallow hand and finger crack to a large horizontal flake, a lieback move gets you to a ledge at about 20 ft. (.75 to #1 camalot)From the ledge climb 15 ft. of stem box with tips crack on either side. (small TCUs) Above the stem box climb a tight hands corner up to a small roof for about 25 ft. (#0.75 to #1 Camalot) Above the roof climb perfect hands in a corner for 30 ft. (mostly #2 Camalots, 1 #3) Just below the anchor pull the crux roof/bulge. (#2 Camalot)


Small TCUs up to #3 Camalot, extra #2 and #3s.

Photos of Neat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Neat.
Me on Neat.
Rock Climbing Photo: the whole route
the whole route
Rock Climbing Photo: at the 1st roof just before the tight hands sectio...
at the 1st roof just before the tight hands sectio...
Rock Climbing Photo: Haines showing perfect technique.
Haines showing perfect technique.
Rock Climbing Photo: Katie Sheehan belaying Max Rodatz
Katie Sheehan belaying Max Rodatz
Rock Climbing Photo: Amanda leading Neat
Amanda leading Neat
Rock Climbing Photo: about to pull the mini roof just before the chains...
BETA PHOTO: about to pull the mini roof just before the chains...

Comments on Neat Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route on a great wall. My gear: blue and yellow aliens for the start, 2x0.75 Camalots, 2x#1 Camalots, 4x#2 Camalots, and 4x#3 Camalots. The blue Camalots are a little tight midway through the final crack. The roof pinches back down to #2 Camalot size right before the chains.
By Dave Brock
May 19, 2008

Probably one of the BEST 5.10's that I have ever done. High quality rock, excellent gear placements...And fun route. Highly recommend it as a warm up route for other Optimator Wall routes.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009

How does this thing only get 2.5 stars!?!? Get past the initial sandy ramp and into a stellar corner. Hands for the most part. Great route!
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Jan 30, 2011

would have to agree...better than 2.5 stars...exciting roof near the chains
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Mar 19, 2012

FA Casey Yorkunas
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

#3 friends are the best fit for this corner instead of baggy 2 camalots or tight 3 camalot.
By Grant Burton
From: Holladay, UT
Apr 1, 2015

So much fun! The thin section down low was a breeze, lots of different ways to climb it. Greg's comment about the Saggy #2's is mainly true in the top of the crack, right before the roof. If you only have Camalots I'd recommend running it out a bit here and protecting at the roof, which I felt was tighter than the top section prior to the roof. Either rock the sagtastic #2's, run it out, or get some friends or metolius cams. Personally I placed two saggy Camalots and a tight #3 (that almost got stuck).

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!