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Like all the other summits behind the lake, this is a large fin formation with a NW face and SE face. Originally called Hot Potato by the Conns when they climbed it on Aug 22nd, 1955. Holds several lesser known classics, put in more recently.
Can be approached by either the saddle below the Riddle, or by hiking past the Orc Cave. Most distinguishable landmarks is the beautiful grassy narrow corridor on the N side. And this is the highest point of all the ridgelines that make up Middle Earth.
7 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Near Downs
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Near Downs:
Fool of a Took 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Thror 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 135'
Thrain 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Ghostwriter 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Sport
Unknown 2 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Featured Route For Near Downs
Fool of a Took 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c SD : Custer State Park : ... : Near Downs
A super fun moderate that starts with some face climbing to a high bolt leading to a steep hand/fist crack. Follow the crack to its end at a ledge, step onto the face following a flake to a second bolt. Crystal pinch your way past more bolts to an exciting arete finish. You may want to sling the top horn for the follower to protect the final moves before the traverse to the anchors. Numerous cruxes and amazing exposure at the end....[more] Browse More Classics in SD