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Near Downs

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abridged Version, The T 
Belly of the Dragon T 
Fool of a Took T 
Ghostwriter S 
Right Wight T 
Straight Outta Mordor S 
There and Back Again T 
Thrain T,S 
Thror T,S 
Unknown 1 T,S 
Unknown 2 T 
West Rib T 
Unsorted Routes:

Near Downs  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.8486, -103.5705 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,689
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Aug 27, 2012

76° | 54°

71° | 39°
Columbus Day

55° | 43°

62° | 41°

58° | 40°

54° | 38°
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Henning Boldt on the awesome last moves of Thror. ...


Like all the other summits behind the lake, this is a large fin formation with a NW face and SE face. Originally called Hot Potato by the Conns when they climbed it on Aug 22nd, 1955. Holds several lesser known classics, put in more recently.

Getting There 

Can be approached by either the saddle below the Riddle, or by hiking past the Orc Cave. Most distinguishable landmarks is the beautiful grassy narrow corridor on the N side. And this is the highest point of all the ridgelines that make up Middle Earth.

Climbing Season

For the Middle Earth area.

Weather station 5.9 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Near Downs:
There and Back Again   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   
Fool of a Took   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Thrain   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
Thror   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 135'   
Ghostwriter   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
Straight Outta Mordor   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Right Wight   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 140'   
Unknown 2   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   
Unknown 1   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Near Downs

Featured Route For Near Downs
Fool of a took

Fool of a Took 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Near Downs
A super fun moderate that starts with some face climbing to a high bolt leading to a steep hand/fist crack. Follow the crack to its end at a ledge, step onto the face following a flake to a second bolt. Crystal pinch your way past more bolts to an exciting arete finish. You may want to sling the top horn for the follower to protect the final moves before the traverse to the anchors. Numerous cruxes and amazing exposure at the end....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

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