Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Solar Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Clovis Hunter S 
Cro-Magnon S 
Erectus (Open Project) S 
Evolution S 
Hominid S 
Hunter Gatherer S 
ILL (Ian and Lance Line) Route, The S 
Intelligent Design S 
Lucy S 
Mastodont S 
Meanderthal S 
Native Rituals S 
Natural Selection S 
Neanderthal S 
Quest for Fire S 
Sapien S 
Solo Man (or Homo Erectus Soloensis) S 
Survival of the Fittest S 
Tribal Moves (aka Sacred Stone) S 
Voyage of the Beagle S 

Neanderthal 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: A. Miller
New Route: Yes
Season: 4
Page Views: 719
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Jun 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Josh at the top of Neanderthal, which is also the ...

Description 

A subspecies of Homo sapiens (Homo sapiens neanderthalensis), they had bigger brains than modern day humans and were known for their advanced use of tools and culture.

Starts in center of Cave in right-facing dihedral. Pull through awkward and pumpy 12b climbing to gain upper face with airy (well-bolted) 11+ technical crux. This climb requires technique that is only found in places like Yosemite. Good all around climbing skills are required as you will encounter crux moves of three distinctively different flavors. Do NOT climb this if you are a wus, though donating another leaver-biner to my collection is always OK by me.

Location 

Between Sapien and Cro-Magnon. Climb up slabs to base of roof center, just right of large steep dihedral.

Protection 

12 to 13 bolts. Use long draws for bolts under steep section to reduce drag.


Comments on Neanderthal Add Comment
Show which comments
By Keith Beckley
Nov 19, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Great, yet perplexing moves into the steeps. Relaxing middle....very techy stemming finish...tough last clip.. Awesome route!
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Oct 13, 2012

This route now has three fixed-chain draws at the steep start. Now I don't feel so obligated to climb this route every time I see some leaver-booty, and I can climb other routes in the Cave. Sheesh. Must be lots of sport climbers climbing out of their element here.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 26, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Neanderthal's 5.11 upper thin face headwall is similar in difficulty and scariness to the upper parts of the 2 climbs to its left (Cromagnon, and, to a lesser extent, Lucy). As with Cromagnon, it's well-bolted but there's a lot of rope out by then, and it's hard for the belayer to see what's happening because of the overhang.
At least 1 helpful hold broke in spring 2015 after I was done working on it, making the crux a little harder when I tried it 1 year later.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!