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Talking Headwall
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Angry Muppets 
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Ne Plus Ultra 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,297
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: TR set up on this route to the right of climber.

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This is the second route from the left at the Talking Headwall. Start on the featured face and climb through a large overhang. Beware of rope drag through the overhangs. Use a longer sling on the last draw before the anchors, the biner can bind against the ledge and open the gate.


Second route on the left at the Talking Headwall.


5 bolts and ring anchors.

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By Justin Scott
From: Arlington, VA
Apr 21, 2012

This route is between I Love Big Jugs and Fortis

By Budman252
Jul 7, 2012

Great route. I did this route on gear and no bolts...protects very well.

By MealyM
From: Frankfurt
Sep 22, 2012

Great route - there are 6 bolts actually, not 5. Overhangs were challenging, but there are good holds if you look for them. There was a lot of rope drag, so I would bring at least 2 alpine draws.

By Fan Z.
From: Washington, DC
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Be careful not to extend too much the draw at the last bolt before the roof/crux. Failure to clip next bolt will result in decking on big ledge half way up the route.