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Talking Headwall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Muppets T 
Big Balls S 
Continuance S 
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 
Fat Bastard S 
Foops T 
Fortis S 
I Love Big Jugs S 
I Want a Big Truck T 
Leading Should Feel This Way S 
Little Balls T 
McMurray must be Castrated T 
Ne Plus Ultra S 
Pure Energy S 
unknown, 5.10 S 

Ne Plus Ultra 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,977
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: TR set up on this route to the right of climber.


This is the second route from the left at the Talking Headwall. Start on the featured face and climb through a large overhang. Beware of rope drag through the overhangs. Use a longer sling on the last draw before the anchors, the biner can bind against the ledge and open the gate.


Second route on the left at the Talking Headwall.


5 bolts and ring anchors.

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By Justin Scott
From: Arlington, VA
Apr 21, 2012

This route is between I Love Big Jugs and Fortis
By Budman252
Jul 7, 2012

Great route. I did this route on gear and no bolts...protects very well.
By MealyM
From: Frankfurt
Sep 22, 2012

Great route - there are 6 bolts actually, not 5. Overhangs were challenging, but there are good holds if you look for them. There was a lot of rope drag, so I would bring at least 2 alpine draws.
By Fan Z.
From: Washington, DC
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Be careful not to extend too much the draw at the last bolt before the roof/crux. Failure to clip next bolt will result in decking on big ledge half way up the route.
By Charlotte211
2 days ago

I've toproped and leaded this route. The top rope was in convienent spot, and my friends, (who don't lead) enjoyed this. I feel like this is easier than the 5.8 right next to it, though.
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