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NE Rib? (submitted as NE Buttress)
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
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Routes in Mount Toll
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Barber Shop Traverse (West Face Spiral Route) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c R |
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NE Rib? (submitted as NE Buttress) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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North Wall, Left Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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South Face Easy Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown sod |
| Page Views: | 1,112 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jul 10, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route is not recommended unless you just can't find anything else to do. We jumped on this route, because the wind was gusting over the N Ridge at probably 25-30 mph with gusts to 40 mp,h and we didn't bring adequate clothing to enjoy those conditions.
See the approach described for the North Ridge. Count on about 2 to 2 1/2 h. From the saddle north of Mt. Toll, we traverse SSE to get out of the wind and lo and behold, it was sheltered. There was this narrow rib of rock between 2 chimney systems. However, it turned out looser and wetter than it looked, but we weren't the first fools to do it.
P1. We scrambled up perhaps 150 feet on 3rd-4th Class terrain to a small nook/ledge. I'd recommend considering a rope. We used a wire and #0.75 Camalot for the belay. There was an ancient bolt somewhere near here.
P2. Surmount a slightly bulging bit, 4th Class, manky rock to a left-facing dihedral. We found, tested, and pulled out with finger pressure an ancient piton in a crack, 200 feet.
P3. Continued up on funky, loose terrain to a ledge. We used #0.75 Camalot and #1 Camalot at belay at the base of a crack system, 200 feet.
P4. This is the crux pitch. Go up the crack, traverse right, step up, go over a bulge, and do some face moves that make you wish the rock were dry, 80 feet.
P5. Continue up more moderate rock as it eases to 3rd Class terrain. 200 feet puts you just below the summit.
See the approach described for the North Ridge. Count on about 2 to 2 1/2 h. From the saddle north of Mt. Toll, we traverse SSE to get out of the wind and lo and behold, it was sheltered. There was this narrow rib of rock between 2 chimney systems. However, it turned out looser and wetter than it looked, but we weren't the first fools to do it.
P1. We scrambled up perhaps 150 feet on 3rd-4th Class terrain to a small nook/ledge. I'd recommend considering a rope. We used a wire and #0.75 Camalot for the belay. There was an ancient bolt somewhere near here.
P2. Surmount a slightly bulging bit, 4th Class, manky rock to a left-facing dihedral. We found, tested, and pulled out with finger pressure an ancient piton in a crack, 200 feet.
P3. Continued up on funky, loose terrain to a ledge. We used #0.75 Camalot and #1 Camalot at belay at the base of a crack system, 200 feet.
P4. This is the crux pitch. Go up the crack, traverse right, step up, go over a bulge, and do some face moves that make you wish the rock were dry, 80 feet.
P5. Continue up more moderate rock as it eases to 3rd Class terrain. 200 feet puts you just below the summit.
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