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Chair Peak
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NE Buttress of Chair Peak 

NE Buttress of Chair Peak 

AI2-3

   
Type:  Ice, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original: AI2-3 Mod. Snow [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Late-Dec to Mid-Feb
Page Views: 2,590
Submitted By: Dave Schultz on Feb 4, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Our line up the NE Buttress in September

Description 

just climbers left of the N Face of Chair is the NEB. There are two variations to start, a left and right. Left goes more directly up to trees; right goes up and right and then turns back left to a belay in the trees. The second pitch is a snow climb to the ice step. Third pitch is an ice step. Four pitch is more snow to the summit.

Location 

Follow the winter trail out of the upper lot of Alpental to the bottom of the drainage, head up and right and then trend left heading for the Chair Peak Summit. Cache your approach gear in the bowl at about 5200 feet and boot up the east ridge of Chair and then follow the ridge to the start of the route.

Protection 

mixed bag; I used a single cam, piton, and screw for the technical pitch; pickets for the snow.


Photos of NE Buttress of Chair Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the entire route, minus the last little bi...
View of the entire route, minus the last little bi...
Rock Climbing Photo: climbed Jan 2, 2016
BETA PHOTO: climbed Jan 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from a belay just below the ice step
Looking down from a belay just below the ice step
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down from the first belay on the right var...
looking down from the first belay on the right var...

Comments on NE Buttress of Chair Peak Add Comment
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By Aawait
Aug 12, 2013

I had some fun on this in the summer, easy 5th/4th!
By Cat Cahoon
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 31, 2016

Started by climbing the hidden ramp up and right to a mixed bit (placed cams and clipped some fixed pins) and belayed in the trees. Then a long pitch to the base of the ice step (we had a 70m and still simuled some). This pitch protected well with small cams and a picket. The ice was vertical for a body length or so and in good shape. Last pitch was pure snow climbing to the crest. Glad to have a 70m for the raps. (climbed 1/2/16)

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