NC Sport Climber  5.12+

736 page views Good page? (1 like)

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.12+ [details] FA:  Phil York, et al (2005) Season:  Summer/Spring/Fall Submitted By:  Phil York on Jun 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Working the seam.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Boulder up a smooth face onto a small ledge (5.10ish), where you can get some gear. Climb up easier terrain into a seam/crack system that veers up and left to a bolt. The crux is after the first bolt. Clip the bolt and smear, hack, curse your way up under the roof where you can double up some large cams (#3 or #4 Camalot size). Pull the roof where a second bolt will greet you. Climb straight up to a 2-bolt anchor.

Location 

Located right in between Blade Loafer and Ivy League. Start on a smooth face just under the seam system.

Protection 

Light rack. Fair range of cams, especially larger sizes. A long runner or two for the gear under the roof. This route is safe, but missing the move to the roof would be a nice whip. Also, the boulder moves to the first gear placement is probably not customery for this area, but once your hands are on the positive lip you can mantle up with a no hands rest.