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Peeler Face
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Golden Eye T,S 
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Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 
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Nazi Love Slaves 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A0 [details]
FA: Bill Robbins, Kirk Andriano: 1987
Page Views: 572
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 4, 2007

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On private land. MORE INFO >>>

Route Description 

Pitch 1: Climb a 3" left-diagonalling crack & straight up a 5.10 slab past a bolt & piton. Gain a ledge and belay.
Pitch 2: Continue right, along an exposed ramp (5.11a A0), past 2 pitons.
Pitch 3: Climb straight up a 5.10 offwidth crack.
Pitch 4: Climb over a roof and up a 5.9 slab.

Approach 

Hike to Animal Crackers. Continue 200 yards north of Animal Crackers. The approach is arduous. It took me about 75 minutes.

Protection 

I recommend 8 cams(0.4"-2.5"), 8 nuts(0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 16 runners(24").

Descent 

I scrambled down the north side. I did not dare to rappel using the existing hardware on the route. Rappelling the route might be awkward anyway because it traverses so far right.


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By tenesmus
Nov 9, 2007

Anyone know where this one is?
By James Garrett
Nov 13, 2007

Doesn't ooo's detailed description cover it well enough? You can't miss it!
By Kirk Andriano
Nov 23, 2007

I was one of the original first ascent members in 1987. Glad to see a few folks appreciate the climb.

Kirk Andriano