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Naughty and Nice 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FFA Bryan Smith, Jason Frick, Kevin Evanson 5/4/08. FA of upper dihedral Jim Opdycke, Mike Jackson 1985
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Start up shattered left-facing corner, then traverse left to first bolt. Pass two more bolts to gain ledge system, step up and left on easy terrain, then climb the initially overhanging right-facing dihedral until possible to traverse right to anchor.


Protection 

Gear to 3 and bolts.



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By bryans
Aug 31, 2010

This route starts with three bolts on a steep east-facing 30 foot wall that is just left of the obviously largest and steepest wall at the crag (i.e. "main cliff").

To the right of "Naughty and Nice" (in order) are "Lion of Judah" which shares the first 15 with this route, "Day of Atonement," and "Hollow Victories" which has the lone bolt on the "main cliff". To the left are "Squeeze Play" a toprope problem arete, "Tunnel Vision" which starts with gear in the dark dihedral, and "The Darkhorse" which starts with 2 bolts on a steep face.

These are some of the cleanest and steepest routes here.

By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I felt the direct start adds to the challenge and quality of the bottom part of this route. No need to traverse in from the broken corner. The dihedral above the ledge was terribly dirty. We cleaned what we could, but more traffic is needed on this thing.

By bryans
Jul 18, 2011

glad you liked the direct start. it's just a huge fall if you don't make the first bolt, so i figured most people would plug gear out right, then traverse in. and yes, the upper dihedral gets seasonal runoff and therefore dirty. i'm guessing you are the first one on it this year. it will be fine once cleaned - and to me, that's the 10d part of the route. we figured the bolted section was a stout 10c.