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Natural Log Cabin 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Daryl Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro, and Terry Lien
Page Views: 4,002
Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Topping out on Natural Log Cabin (11+).

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Description 

This rarely done gem is definitely my favorite single pitch climb on the lower wall. Runout 5.10 climbing leads to a bolt and some fun 5.11 face moves. Next is a flared hand crack that can be liebacked (hard to place gear this way), which leads to a good rest and a bolt. Step right into a spectacular corner with bolts. Stem and lieback your way to the chains. May be a little reachy, and probably easier for tall people. Lowering is not recommended due to lots of rope drag.

Note: A standard 70 meter rope will not reach the ground if lowering.

Location 

This is the next route to the right of Godzilla P1. The orignal pitch called Deal with it ranger goes straight up a chimney where Natural log cabin cuts right into the bolted corner.

Protection 

Mixed

About the name 

Natural log cabin was a bit of mathematical humor in the form of graffiti in the internationally famous 1st floor men's room of the old UW Physics building. It was in the stall against the wall, I believe. I heard that before they moved out, and transferred the building to Administration, someone went in and carefully photographed all the old graffiti.


Photos of Natural Log Cabin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: in the bottomless corner
in the bottomless corner
Rock Climbing Photo: This was too perfect not to snap a picture of.
This was too perfect not to snap a picture of.
Rock Climbing Photo: finishing up the 11b crack section
finishing up the 11b crack section
Rock Climbing Photo: Pinching the arete on Natural Log Cabin
Pinching the arete on Natural Log Cabin
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up into the awesome bottomless corner of n...
BETA PHOTO: looking up into the awesome bottomless corner of n...

Comments on Natural Log Cabin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 12, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

If you aren't 6'3" and built like a bear as Jesse is this route is going to feel hard for the grade...5.11c is defintanly a sandbag...not as bad as some sandbags at Index, but definantly up there. And the first 30 feet is 5.10 R/X...though feels more PG-13/R.

It also seeps like crazy till it's had a solid week in the sun.
By Drewsky
Jul 3, 2008

I love this climb. I always used to approach it by moving in from the start of Godzilla as opposed to the direct start. On one occasion, a hold broke in the 5.10 section while I was fully locked off on it and it was a pretty close call, within 5 feet of the ground. I whipped on my only cam and it wasn't the greatest placement. I've since determined that there is better gear on the direct version that makes getting to the first bolt more reasonable but still a bit run-out: you still don't want to fall in the vicinity of the bolt. The direct start is unprotected for about 20 feet and seems always to be a bit dirty. Finally, if you're shorter than 5'6" or have a short reach, clipping the first bolt without a pre-hung draw/sling may prove to be very committing.
By Ol' Toby
From: WA
Jul 25, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Superb, four-star pitch with several cruxes separated by good rests. The hanging dihedral is both technical and powerful with surprisingly good feet, but it ain't over til you pull the final layback moves with a solid pump on board.
By derekpearson
Aug 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

I rapelled this route 7/29 with a 70 but had to down climb the first move so it can be done with a 70 carefully.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 30, 2014

The name came from the oft-admired graffiti in the 1st-floor men's room in the old UW Physics building (RIP).
By Douglas T
Apr 13, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R

Alex Honnold called it "The Hardest 11d in the World".
By Jon Todorovich
Jun 18, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

One of the best among the classics at the LTW. Climbing to the first bolt is a little spicy, but not terrible. There are 3 pieces of gear that are all pretty good before the bolt. If the risk/reward to the first bolt just isn't worth it to you (the climbing to the first bolt isn't that special anyway), another safer option is to warm up on Godzilla trailing a separate rope and on the way down stick clip the first bolt on The Cabin.
A blue TCU makes the spaced bolts in the bottomless corner feel much more approachable. But the fall is perfectly clean if you forgo the TCU and take the whipper.

The route has 2 sets of anchors -- one for the original route (right) and one for the left variation. I prefer the original exit and this anchor is atop a large comfy ledge, which is nice. The left anchor is about 10 feet lower than the right anchor - just below the large, comfy ledge. One downside to the right anchor is it puts the rope in-line with a rope-sized crack that I've gotten my rope stuck in (easy to fix with minimal shenanigans). I've done the route with 2 different 70's -- both barely got me to the ground from the left (and lower) anchors. If rapping from the right anchors with a 70 you'll have to do some easy down climbing. Tie knots or use an 80!!
Another quick word of caution - its probably better to rap from this one. If lowering (from the right anchor), you may get your rope stuck in the crack and you may be stuck in space.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Sep 3, 2016

At any crag on the planet you could award yourself 12a.

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