|Narrow Arrow and further right
This rarely done gem is definitely my favorite single pitch climb on the lower wall. Runout 5.10 climbing leads to a bolt and some fun 5.11 face moves. Next is a flared hand crack that can be liebacked (hard to place gear this way), which leads to a good rest and a bolt. Step right into a spectacular corner with bolts. Stem and lieback your way to the chains. May be a little reachy, and probably easier for tall people. Lowering is not recommended due to lots of rope drag.
Note: A standard 70 meter rope will not reach the ground if lowering.
This is the next route to the right of Godzilla P1. The orignal pitch called Deal with it ranger goes straight up a chimney where Natural log cabin cuts right into the bolted corner.
|By Scott W|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 12, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
If you aren't 6'3" and built like a bear as Jesse is this route is going to feel hard for the grade...5.11c is defintanly a sandbag...not as bad as some sandbags at Index, but definantly up there. And the first 30 feet is 5.10 R/X...though feels more PG-13/R.
It also seeps like crazy till it's had a solid week in the sun.
Jul 3, 2008
I love this climb. I always used to approach it by moving in from the start of Godzilla as opposed to the direct start. On one occasion, a hold broke in the 5.10 section while I was fully locked off on it and it was a pretty close call, within 5 feet of the ground. I whipped on my only cam and it wasn't the greatest placement. I've since determined that there is better gear on the direct version that makes getting to the first bolt more reasonable but still a bit run-out: you still don't want to fall in the vicinity of the bolt. The direct start is unprotected for about 20 feet and seems always to be a bit dirty. Finally, if you're shorter than me, clipping the first bolt without a pre-hung draw/sling ay probe to be very committing. Build your confidence a bit before you try to lead this one.
|By Ol' Toby|
Jul 25, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
This is a superb, four-star pitch with several cruxes separated by good rests. The hanging dihedral is both technical and powerful with surprisingly good feet, but it ain't over til you pull the final layback moves with a solid pump on board.
Bring small to medium nuts, double set of finger size, a single set above that to 3, and seven draws. While the "r" rating is only applicable to the start, the bottom holds can be dirty and gear is limited. As mentioned above, a 70M does not make it down to the ground from the anchor, mine wasn't even close. It is possible to rappel right to the Narrow Arrow Overhang anchors and then to the ground.
Aug 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
I rapelled this route 7/29 with a 70 but had to down climb the first move so it can be done with a 70 carefully.