Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Cathedral
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Epiphany, The 
Golden 
Golden Direct 
Holy Shit 
Irrational Exuberance 
Natural Born Drillers 
Pagan Rituals 
Raising Cain 
Sacrilege 
Solid Gold 
Spaceshuttle to Kolob 
Speaking In Tongues 
Spring Loaded 
Worshipping The Limestone Gods 

Natural Born Drillers 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Nad & Goss
Page Views: 671
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 23, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

This is the first route at the Cathedral and one of the longest - it takes a traversing line linking great natural features before busting straight up to the rim for the final few clips. Several cruxes and good rests comprise this wonderful pump-fest.

Begin as for Speaking in Tongues (by far a more popular route - though it shouldn't be) on the right side of the cave. A difficult undercling move that isn't so bad if you can stay glued to the glassy feet leads to better holds. There's a shallow no-hands knee bar before the route moves right where Tongues moves left. Here you must pass two very poorly placed bolts - they are too low and too far to the right of the climbing, making the clips difficult and the climbing unsettling. In any case, move right to a huge hueco, then right again to a smaller, but perhaps better one that is home to an abandoned peregrine nest. Hope that there is a long sling on the next bolt as you move up on some cobbles in a shallow depression on the wall. A few more moves up and right around an arete-like feature lead to a great stance and opportunity for complete recovery. Easy stemming up a corner culminates in a big move to a good hole, and another rest before the final run to the chains: This section is steep and uncharacteristically crimpy, but it also has the nicest rock. The anchor is tough to clip.

Use a 70m cord and when you lower redirect through a midway chain anchor to land on the starting platform. With a shorter rope you'll need to lower twice using the aforementioned anchor.


Protection 

16 bolts or so?



Comments on Natural Born Drillers Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -