Native Rituals 5.13b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13- [details] |
| FA: | Lee Brinkerhoff? |
| Submitted By: | Monomaniac on Dec 4, 2006 |
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Ed loving the sloping pinches
Native Rituals (5.12...
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Description This cryptic route is arguably the hardest in the Solar Cave. The route begins up relatively mellow, blocky rock, before hitting the first crux at the 3rd & 4th bolt. Slopey pinches and awkward body positions lead to a rattly double crimp hold and a terrible shake. From here, clip up then head over the next bulge with strenuous moves on small but positive crimps and pockets. Above the bulge a decent shake leads to a few more sequential moves to a no-hands stance on Clovis Hunter. A few more trivial moves deliver you below the final upper roof, where an off-balance, pumpy, and somewhat terrifying lieback turns the lip to the anchor. Its best to hang a long draw over the lip here so you can clip before committing to the lieback.
Location This route begins immediately right of Clovis Hunter in the Solar Cave. The route heads straight up the overhang, turns the lip, briefly joins Clovis Hunter, then continues straight up over a second roof, where Clovis Hunter heads right.
Protection Bolts. The anchor has been re-equipped with steel hardware.
Finishing the hard stuff
Native Rituals (5.12+)
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| Comments on Native Rituals |
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By Aaron Miller
Dec 25, 2007
rating: 5.12d
| Probably a letter grade or two easier than Mastodont. Really fun movement and good climbing. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 25, 2009
rating: 5.13b
| It would be nice if people did not steal biners off of the anchors after you put them up there for lowering off, I'm sure I left 2 on each. |
By Paul Davidson
Feb 25, 2009
| Damn Lee, I thought that was booty....
Just kidding.
You'd think bozo's would recognize "fixed" gear when they see it. |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 25, 2009
| No doubt. I've taken to spray painting the biners black (to make them look much less attractive as booty) ahead of time and even used bailing wire to "fix" the biners on the chain which, obviously, isn't a real deterrent but at least says, "hey, these biners were left here on purpose for the safety and convenience of everyone."
Thanks for installing "fixed" biners, Lee. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 25, 2009
rating: 5.13b
| Well I usually stick the ugliest crapiest looking biners up there possible, I've got a great green locker with gold splatter anidization, truely hideous.
I guess I'll just bring out some quick links next time I'm out to put on the bolts and move the biners down.
The 5.13b grade is not going to keep anyone away since you can climb Clovis Hunter into the finish at the same Clovis grade, but you would still think that those folks would know what is up. |
By Aaron Miller
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.12d
| we re-equipped this anchor with some fancy steel hardware. Should last forever. |
By MattL
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.13a
| I added a couple of quicklinks to reduce rope twisting last year - man, that industrial grade lowering hook is awesome! I give it 13a because I've never been able to do 13b second try. Although, it does suit my style. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.13b
| Suits your style...as in not reachy? |
By A.S..
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.13a/b
| Truly a great climb. I thought 13- was right on. I wish there were more like this one. |
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