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Solar Cave
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Clovis Hunter S 
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Hunter Gatherer S 
ILL (Ian and Lance Line) Route, The S 
Intelligent Design S 
Lucy S 
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Native Rituals S 
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Quest for Fire S 
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Voyage of the Beagle S 

Native Rituals 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Lee Brinkerhoff?
Page Views: 1,906
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Ed loving the sloping pinches Native Rituals (5.12...


This cryptic route begins up relatively mellow, blocky rock, before hitting the first crux at the 3rd & 4th bolt. Slopey pinches and awkward body positions lead to a rattly double crimp hold and a terrible shake. From here, clip up then head over the next bulge with strenuous moves on small but positive crimps and pockets. Above the bulge a decent shake leads to a few more sequential moves to a no-hands stance on Clovis Hunter. A few more trivial moves deliver you below the final upper roof, where an off-balance, pumpy, and somewhat terrifying lieback turns the lip to the anchor. Its best to hang a long draw over the lip here so you can clip before committing to the lieback.


This route begins immediately right of Clovis Hunter in the Solar Cave. The route heads straight up the overhang, turns the lip, briefly joins Clovis Hunter, then continues straight up over a second roof, where Clovis Hunter heads right.


Bolts. The anchor has been re-equipped with steel hardware.

Photos of Native Rituals Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Keith Beckley cranking on the crux holds
Keith Beckley cranking on the crux holds
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the hard stuff Native Rituals (5.12+)
Finishing the hard stuff Native Rituals (5.12+)
Rock Climbing Photo: Keith on the crux
Keith on the crux

Comments on Native Rituals Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Dec 25, 2007
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Probably a letter grade or two easier than the other 13a routes on this wall. Really fun movement and good climbing.
By LeeAB
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 25, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

It would be nice if people did not steal biners off of the anchors after you put them up there for lowering off, I'm sure I left 2 on each.
By Paul Davidson
Feb 25, 2009

Damn Lee, I thought that was booty....

Just kidding.
You'd think bozo's would recognize "fixed" gear when they see it.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 25, 2009

No doubt. I've taken to spray painting the biners black (to make them look much less attractive as booty) ahead of time and even used bailing wire to "fix" the biners on the chain which, obviously, isn't a real deterrent but at least says, "hey, these biners were left here on purpose for the safety and convenience of everyone."
Thanks for installing "fixed" biners, Lee.
By LeeAB
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 25, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Well I usually stick the ugliest crapiest looking biners up there possible, I've got a great green locker with gold splatter anidization, truely hideous.

I guess I'll just bring out some quick links next time I'm out to put on the bolts and move the biners down.

The 5.13b grade is not going to keep anyone away since you can climb Clovis Hunter into the finish at the same Clovis grade, but you would still think that those folks would know what is up.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Hardware in place as of 2014.
Generally, I don't like locking biners at the anchor because they seize up and become impossible to clip into.
By MattL
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I added a couple of quicklinks to reduce rope twisting last year - man, that industrial grade lowering hook is awesome! I give it 13a because I've never been able to do 13b second try. Although, it does suit my style.
By LeeAB
From: ABQ, NM
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Suits your in not reachy?
By A.S..
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Truly a great climb. I thought 13- was right on. I wish there were more like this one.

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