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 ADVANCED
Narrow Arrow and further right
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
24 Hour Buccaneer T 
Deal with it Ranger T 
Higher Learning  T 
Just Say No S 
Just Say No to With Apologies to Walter B T,S 
Kunselman's Physics T,S 
Like Honey T,S 
Mini Air Dangler T 
Narrow Arrow Direct T,S 
Narrow Arrow Overhang T,S 
Natural Log Cabin T 
Path of Righteousness T,S 
Quarry Crack T 
Salad Fingers T 
Shirley T 
Tatoosh T 
Thin Fingers T 
Voyage of the Majestic Glass-eyed Tuna T,S 
With Apologies to Walter B T 

Narrow Arrow Overhang 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA:  FA(3p): Greg Donaldson, Richard Mathies, 68 FFA(p1 L): Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien FFA(P2 via traverse): Dick Cilley
Page Views: 1,900
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008

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Description 

To the right of Deal With it Ranger/Natural Log Cabin, climb ledges to a left facing corner with cracks and some face climbing. Climb up the face and corner past two bolts to an anchor (.10c). Above, climb through the shallow chimneys via tricky stemming moves with small gear (hard to place) to another ledge with an anchor (.11b/c). Lieback the arete/corner above past two bolts to the roof (.12d). A very tough move leads over the roof to a new anchor about 15 feet above (.12). A little runout in spots and absolutely spectacular. First free ascent of the modern pitch is probably by Ben Gilkison. The crux lieback section was likely first freed on toprope by Chris Schlotfeldt in the 90's.

Location 

Starts between Deal With it Ranger/Natural Log Cabin and Narrow Arrow Direct in a left facing corner with a crack on the face of the corner. Above the top anchors, it looks possible to continue climbing via corners and some broken rock to a higher anchor below the Salad Fingers corner. This appears to have been climbed in the past but I'm uncertain of the difficulty.

Protection 

4 bolts at the beginning, 3 on the top section (including the anchor below the lieback). Nuts (include a couple of RP's) and cams small to 1 inch. There are no less than 3 chain-equipped anchors on the route! The first marks the end of yet another 'short version' (.10c). The second is at the end of the first pitch proper, right before the crux .12+ arete. The third is at the end of the 'full' free pitch. Descent from the top anchors is possible via a single 70m rope.


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By blakeherrington
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13

Ben Gilkison did the FA/FFA - in 2008 and gave a grade of "hard .13a" (someone else agreeing on .13- ). Chris Schlotfelt pulled the pins and cleanly TRed the (formerly C1) section above the second anchor, calling those moves .12d.

The climbing above the anchor is just a few meters of 5.8 chimneying with hand cracks to a pedestal ledge. It's easy to reach the anchor between P2 and P3 of NAD, or to step left to the anchor below Salad Fingers.
By Drewsky
Jan 26, 2013

In light of that, it probably was Ben who got the FA. The bolts have been there for at least ten years and I don't think anyone else has done it. I think Super Dave had worked on it at some point but from what I gathered the roof proved to be a shutdown for taller folks. .12d seems fair; I mean, 5.13 is supposed to be REALLY hard, right? Also, I changed the route description to include the updated FFA info.
By Drewsky
Dec 25, 2013

I think Ben deleted some of his comments for some reason. Here are some ideas for what he should rename the pitch: Narrow Arrow Indirect. Narrow Arrow Supreme. Narrow Arrow Forever. The Not-so-narrow Arrow. Wolf Moon. The Gilkison Effect. The Gilkison Express. The Salathe of the North. The University Wall of the South. The Best Climb at Index/in the World. Gravity's Shadow. Perseus' Mirror. The Straight and Narrow.
By blakeherrington
Jan 9, 2015
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13

How about "two V6 boulder problems, separated by a strenuous & crucial gear placement" - it's accurate, but doesn't quite roll off the tongue.
By Drewsky
Jan 10, 2015

Math:

2xV6 boulder problems and one thuggy 5.11 start
V6=5.11b/c
(5.11b/c)+(5.11b/c)+(5.11)=5.12

We'll call this the "Index Grading Proof"
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Jan 10, 2015

You mean that V6 = Index 11b/c? But if you stack them, doesn't the rating go down? Ben would like that.

About the proposed names, this is for the free version of the entire aid line? How about 'Narrow Arrow Overhang does not care"?

Beautiful line, but I have yet to try it.
By Mike dandy Patz
Jun 21, 2015
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13

Stellar FFA by BG! I'd say better and I think quite a bit harder then 10 % extension.

As blake highlighted the two v6 boulder problems are not really "separated" by anything resembling a restful position, but rather are "connected" by a strenuous crucial gear placement in the overhang.
My subjective breakdown of difficulty of sections between rest...

Stage 1: Approach pitch to second anchor = cryptic 5.11 R ---> huge rest
Stage 2= Strenuous V4/5 ---> bad rest in finger lock ---> (V5/6 getting to roof + extremely pumpy gear placement + V6 navigating roof). Last boulder problem is intense.

stage 2 could be reduced to v4 ---> bad rest---> v7/8 highball( from finger-lock rest to hand jam in stance above roof)

Still working on my index math mastery but that comes out to at least 5.11 B ++
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