Narrow Arrow Overhang 5.12d PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | FA(3p): Greg Donaldson, Richard Mathies, 68 FFA(p1 L): Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien FFA(P2 via traverse): Dick Cilley |
| Submitted By: | Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008 |
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Description To the right of Deal With it Ranger/Natural Log Cabin, climb ledges to a left facing corner with cracks and some face climbing. Climb up the face and corner past two bolts to an anchor (.10c). Above, climb through the shallow chimneys via tricky stemming moves with small gear (hard to place) to another ledge with an anchor (.11b/c). Lieback the arete/corner above past two bolts to the roof (.12d). A very tough move leads over the roof to a new anchor about 15 feet above (.12). A little runout in spots and absolutely spectacular. First free ascent of the modern pitch is probably by Ben Gilkison. The crux lieback section was likely first freed on toprope by Chris Schlotfeldt in the 90's.
Location Starts between Deal With it Ranger/Natural Log Cabin and Narrow Arrow Direct in a left facing corner with a crack on the face of the corner. Above the top anchors, it looks possible to continue climbing via corners and some broken rock to a higher anchor below the Salad Fingers corner. This appears to have been climbed in the past but I'm uncertain of the difficulty.
Protection 4 bolts at the beginning, 3 on the top section (including the anchor below the lieback). Nuts (include a couple of RP's) and cams small to 1 inch. There are no less than 3 chain-equipped anchors on the route! The first marks the end of yet another 'short version' (.10c). The second is at the end of the first pitch proper, right before the crux .12+ arete. The third is at the end of the 'full' free pitch. Descent from the top anchors is possible via a single 70m rope.
| Comments on Narrow Arrow Overhang |
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By blakeherrington
Oct 23, 2012
| Chris told me he never climbed this route, but did cleanly TR the arete section beneath the roof and rated those moves .12d. When he was TRing that section in the '90s, there were no bolts in place, where there are currently 2. The current higher anchor was not there either - he mentioned elaborate shenanigans to build an anchor that would let him work the moves beneath the roof.
Maybe the person who put in those bolts did the FFA of the pitch, or else it seems like Ben Gilkison did - in 2008 and gave a suggested grade of "hard .13a".
For me, the crux was definitely pulling the roof after the arete, with 100' of rope hanging straight down and nothing but air between the climber and the ground. A 70m just perfectly works for this pitch, a 60m will not. (for lowering off) |
By Drewsky
Jan 26, 2013
| In light of that, it probably was Ben who got the FA. The bolts have been there for at least ten years and I don't think anyone else has done it. I think Super Dave had worked on it at some point but from what I gathered the roof proved to be a shutdown for taller folks. .12d seems fair; I mean, 5.13 is supposed to be REALLY hard, right? Also, I changed the route description to include the updated FFA info. |
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