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Narcoleptic Epic 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Pagel, Rick Kollath?
Page Views: 1,173
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Oct 1, 2007
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Dave Rone on Narcoleptic Epic in July of 1985. Th...

Description 

No single crux, just continuous highly-technical stemming in a smooth dihedral. On the lead the pro is solid but sometimes requires patience to find and get in. (and you won't likely be feeling real patient!) Nice spot for a belayer at the bottom of the route. Otherwise, toprope it and just enjoy the moves.


Location 

About 60' east of the Sugarplump Faeries slab. A good size tree right at the edge of the cliff lies directly above the dihedral.


Protection 

Mainly RP's to finger size stoppers, a couple larger sizes for the finish. Some very small cams might be helpful.



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By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 28, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

stinking fun route.

By Bob Kryzer
From: Minnesota
Apr 26, 2012

Agreeing with what I've heard: Best - arguably the hardest - route on the N Shore.