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Narcoleptic Epic 

5.11d

   
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
FA: Dave Pagel, Rick Kollath?
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Oct 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Dave Rone on Narcoleptic Epic in July of 1985. Th...

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Description 

No single crux, just continuous highly-technical stemming in a smooth dihedral. On the lead the pro is solid but sometimes requires patience to find and get in. (and you won't likely be feeling real patient!) Nice spot for a belayer at the bottom of the route. Otherwise, toprope it and just enjoy the moves.


Location 

About 60' east of the Sugarplump Faeries slab. A good size tree right at the edge of the cliff lies directly above the dihedral.


Protection 

Mainly RP's to finger size stoppers, a couple larger sizes for the finish. Some very small cams might be helpful.



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By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 28, 2008
rating: 5.12a

stinking fun route.

By Bob Kryzer
From: Minnesota
Apr 26, 2012

Agreeing with what I've heard: Best - arguably the hardest - route on the N Shore.