Description provided courtesy of Ladd Raine:
A truly memorable and classic climb!
Start in a short low angle dihedral that has a crack that seeps forever after it rains. Make a few moves into a no-hands rest, clip your bolt and start the pumpy section of the climb, the rest of it! Using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life (MUCH EASIER WITH PRE-HUNG DRAWS), then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!
This climb is rated 5.12a, although I give it a 12a/b because I've never felt so worked after any other 12a, yet it isn't a technically demanding as many 12bs I've been on.
6 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor. Bolts 2, 3, 4, and 5 now have permadraws on them.
This climb can be found on the left side of the huge cave at the short dihedral that is under a long wandering line of chalked holds.
BETA PHOTO: The starting dihedral of Narcissus can be polished...
Eddy Ramirez on Narcissus.
BETA PHOTO: Meat of the climb
Doug Fischer climbing Narcissus
Kevin Umbel making it look easy on Narcissus.
Blanco nearing the chains.
Oct 10, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
I found that it was far easier for me to hang and make the 5th clip late, ie after the big move to the jug, and not have to deal with getting a heel onto that ledge and still having to lock off for the bolt. I'm 5'8"
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 31, 2009
As of now, there are only 5 bolts on the route, the only one I noticed missing was the 1st, so beware. The 3rd clip, a bad place to fall seems like it is the one mentioned as being easier to clip from above, I clipped it from small crimps to the right of the bolt. I don't know if this will change or not or if it is intentional.
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 28, 2011
This might be the best 5.12a sport route I have ever been on.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
May 16, 2011
fun route. Since the first bolt has been removed, I am not really sure where exactly the hard clip is that everyone's talking about. The (now) second bolt has a very large, incut, right crimp to clip from, and the third, while high, is clipped from a secure jug/left heelhook stance.
|By Tyler Quesnel|
Nov 18, 2012
If you're not comfortable with the first clip being 20 feet off the deck, bring a 15' stick clip (or be prepared to improvise one with the many sticks lying around from others doing the same).
Pumpy climb, nothing too individually difficult, but I found my endurance seriously lacking to be able to go for the red point. Very fun and well protected. I did not feel unsafe going for any clips, though the anchor did get in my head a little.
|By Chris Whisenhunt|
From: Fayetteville, WV
Dec 27, 2013
The first bolt was just recently re-added.