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Narcissus Cave
Routes Sorted
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Ectomorph Arete S 
Hang On Little Tomato T 
Jeff's Bunny Hop  S 
Narcissus S 
Narcissus Direct S 
Simple Minds S 
Smilin' Jack S 
Sniff the Drill S 
Suicide Blonde S 
That Eight S 

Narcissus 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Howie Feinsilber 1992
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Bolts, 1 Anchor Bolt, 2 Rappel Bolts [details]
Page Views: 10,987
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (89)
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Kevin Umbel making it look easy on Narcissus.

Description 

Description provided courtesy of Ladd Raine:

A truly memorable and classic climb!

Start in a short low angle dihedral that has a crack that seeps forever after it rains. Make a few moves into a no-hands rest, clip your bolt and start the pumpy section of the climb, the rest of it! Using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life (MUCH EASIER WITH PRE-HUNG DRAWS), then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!

This climb is rated 5.12a, although I give it a 12a/b because I've never felt so worked after any other 12a, yet it isn't a technically demanding as many 12bs I've been on.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor. Bolts 2, 3, 4, and 5 now have permadraws on them.

Location 

This climb can be found on the left side of the huge cave at the short dihedral that is under a long wandering line of chalked holds.


Photos of Narcissus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Short way of getting to 5th bolt with smeary feet ...
Short way of getting to 5th bolt with smeary feet ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The starting dihedral of Narcissus can be polished...
BETA PHOTO: The starting dihedral of Narcissus can be polished...
Rock Climbing Photo: 15 year old sending Narcissus
15 year old sending Narcissus
Rock Climbing Photo: Meat of the climb
BETA PHOTO: Meat of the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: John getting ready to dyno
John getting ready to dyno
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Umbel making it look easy on Narcissus.
Kevin Umbel making it look easy on Narcissus.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kane working Narcissus
Kane working Narcissus
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Fischer climbing Narcissus
Doug Fischer climbing Narcissus
Rock Climbing Photo: First cruxy part of the route on the arete.  Photo...
First cruxy part of the route on the arete. Photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eddy Ramirez on Narcissus.
Eddy Ramirez on Narcissus.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just before the business starts
Just before the business starts
Rock Climbing Photo: Blanco nearing the chains.
Blanco nearing the chains.
Rock Climbing Photo: Optional no hands rest.
BETA PHOTO: Optional no hands rest.

Comments on Narcissus Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Aug 28, 2015

The third bolt on this route gets hammered by people falling on it. With the angle of the fall, it can sometimes move the hanger and cause the nut to get loose.
By James Elric
From: rockville
Sep 8, 2015

I heard from multiple sources that the 3rd bolt has come out or is at least loose enough to make it unusable as pro (sometime in the last few weeks). Does anyone have any recent status or word on plans to replace it? @chris: is the situation just the normal loosening you describe? Note: anyone not familiar with the climb be advised that the third bolt is critical.
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Sep 9, 2015

The third bolt on this thing is fine. I just tightened it down with a wrench and added more goop.
By James Elric
From: rockville
Sep 9, 2015

awesome! thanks a lot for taking care of it can't wait to get back on.

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