Napoleon's Angst 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | ??? |
| Submitted By: | Scott Beguin on May 6, 2008 |
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Pulling through the crux of Napoleon's Angst
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Description Start up a slab and then navigate up a slightly overhanging arete with a variety of workable pockets. The crux is between the fourth and fifth bolts.
Location This route is the first route left around the corner from Pumpin' Huecos, still on The Sponge proper.
Protection Five bolts to a two bolt anchor.
This is not what you want to see sliding down the ...
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| Comments on Napoleon's Angst |
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By George Perkins From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 16, 2009 rating: 5.10d
| The first bolt is still missing its hanger, but skipping it is not too scary. |
By Devin Shunk Jul 23, 2009 rating: 5.10b
| Especially if your name is George Perkins. |
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA Jul 20, 2010 rating: 5.10d
| The first bolt is still missing its hangar, but as George said, it's very reasonable to get to the second. You have to make one move past the hangarless first bolt, 5.8 at most. I would say that getting to the first bolt on this climb is less committing/dangerous than getting to the first bolt on Pumping Huecos. Overall, it's a pretty nice climb. I think it might be harder than Pumping Huecos, or at least in the same ballpark. But maybe I was doing something wrong. |
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