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Napoleon's Angst 

5.10b

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
FA: ???
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on May 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Pulling through the crux of Napoleon's Angst

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Description 

Start up a slab and then navigate up a slightly overhanging arete with a variety of workable pockets. The crux is between the fourth and fifth bolts.


Location 

This route is the first route left around the corner from Pumpin' Huecos, still on The Sponge proper.


Protection 

Five bolts to a two bolt anchor.



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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 16, 2009
rating: 5.10d

The first bolt is still missing its hanger, but skipping it is not too scary.

By Devin Shunk
Jul 23, 2009
rating: 5.10b

Especially if your name is George Perkins.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.10d

The first bolt is still missing its hangar, but as George said, it's very reasonable to get to the second. You have to make one move past the hangarless first bolt, 5.8 at most. I would say that getting to the first bolt on this climb is less committing/dangerous than getting to the first bolt on Pumping Huecos.

Overall, it's a pretty nice climb. I think it might be harder than Pumping Huecos, or at least in the same ballpark. But maybe I was doing something wrong.