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Eagle Canyon, Head Of Sinbad NE
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Mother Goose- Nursery Rhymes T 
Nape's Needle T 

Nape's Needle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 160', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2 [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Billy Rothstein Layne Potter. 6th Sept, 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,125
Submitted By: USBRIT on Sep 19, 2006

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Maura coming up the first pitch, Rosco hanging out...

Description 

This spire was named after the 60' Napes Needle pinnacle located in the English Lake District. First climbed in 1886, this ascent is often quoted as being the climb that started the true sport of rock climbing. Starts on the north side of the spire below a line of cracks.

P1) Climb the slab past bolts to the crack/groove. A mixture of bolts and intermittent cam and stopper placements brings one to a good ledge and double anchors. 100' 5.8+ C2

P2) From the ledge follow bolts out right to a final crack that leads to the summit. 60' C1

Location 

From the iron gate on I-70 located just west of mile marker 121, drive 50 yards through the gate to a right turn, then a left turn at 100 yards down a 4X4 road. Drive for about 1.6 miles to the spire. The walk to the spire takes 5 mins.

Protection 

Set of stoppers . Cams. Friends #.5,#1 #3, #5. Camalots #1 #2.


Photos of Nape's Needle Slideshow Add Photo
Paul Ross First Pitch
Paul Ross First Pitch
Hi
Hi
Starting Pitch 2
Starting Pitch 2
On the Summit . North side
On the Summit . North side
Nape's Needle from the 4x4 approach.
Nape's Needle from the 4x4 approach.
South side of Napes Needle.  The route climbs the ...
South side of Napes Needle. The route climbs the ...
Another view.  Good stuff.
Another view. Good stuff.
On the summit First Ascent
On the summit First Ascent

Comments on Nape's Needle Add Comment
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By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 22, 2006

Gorgeous looking tower, but...

I am looking for any advice from whomever climbs this next. I got to the "C2" section (looks to be about 10 feet long) when I had 2 placements blow out when I weighted them (this is above the last bolt on pitch 1 in the thin cracks.) I got in a great nut, then a great lowe ball, but then it ended for me. I had everything from lowe balls to aliens to hb offsets, but after not wanting my third try to blow decided to head down to my truck to get the pins. Once down, the ethics police came to mind and I realized that the tower wasn't going anywhere, and that pounding on a route even in the desert after it has gone clean wasn't cool, at least until someone gives me more beta or I have the blessing of the FA team. I'll take either! Failure sucks.
By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Oct 28, 2006

Hi John. Sorry you had some problems on P1. I would prefer you did not use pins in these cracks, we rarely if ever use pitons on our first ascents. ( odd times drilled angles in very soft rock that will not take a bolt). We think in desert sandstone if one gets to a situation where even the smallest stopper will not fit, perhaps only a knife blade piton,its preferable to place a bolt rather that destroy the rock with placing and removing pitons . . We ourselves only use wire stoppers and cams. Perhaps you need to loose some weight?..Stick at it and try some stoppers first.... Best Wishes Paul Ross
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 30, 2006

Thanks Paul.

I appreciate the feedback. I look forward to going back and giving it another try. After falling, I sometimes start to get tunnel vision and don't see other options.

For the record, 175lbs., can't blame the weight...
By Ben Folsom
May 10, 2010

Maura and I climbed this today... John, I have your biner if you want to come get it. I do expect a six pack reward though... :)
The C2 section did have some real soft rock, I must admit I was pretty nervous and was ready to take the fall. I got some smaller nuts to stick in the sandy stuff. Probably size 4-6 BD stoppers.
For the gear list, be sure to bring a full rack of stoppers, and probably one set of cams including small ones. The largest cam I used was an older BD #3.5, had the #5 on the rack according to the gear list, but didn't use it.
According to the summit register and Johns biner, this was the second ascent of the tower.