This ultra-classic route starts in the shallow (1-2 foot deep, right-facing) dihedral, facing the road. It protects well, albeit somewhat strenuously at times, in the obvious placements. Several placements and sizes of small to medium gear are available. Make a committing, but not too difficult move up and out of the dihedral to the bolt. Shake out the legs and arms then run up the fun face past several bolts to the groove where you'll make about a 30 foot runout for the anchors while pondering the route's name and gunning for glory (don't slip up!). There's three bolts for the anchor and, at the time of this posting, only one is any good. One of the bad ones is a new anchor but, unfortunatley, was poorly placed and is loose (i.e., the bolt rattles around in the hole and the hanger nut needs to be tightened down). The other bad bolt (the reason for the two new bolts) is an old button head and a mighty thin hanger. Bring a bolt kit and one new bolt/hanger set up to fix a safer anchor if you can. We were without such paraphanalia on this trip, but replaced the old slings by equalizing all three anchors.
Small to medium nuts and small cams (1-4 Trango Flex Cams or similar). Draws for several bolts on upper face. There's about a 30 foot runout to the top on easier (5.5-5.6'ish maybe) ground in the groove.
BETA PHOTO: Face climbing past the crux. June '07. Starting to follow after a brief rain. The top of the crack.
|By Shawn P. Tracy|
Jun 24, 2004
...the "vs" designation was a mistake on my part, I meant to rate it's seriousness as "s" instead.
|By Kevin Fons|
Nov 28, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Amazing Route. Don't climb to the very top of the Dihedral, move left 4-5 feet before the end. Most of the injuries on the route happen when the leader attempts to climb the dihedral to the very end then falls and breks their ankles.
|By Kris Gorny|
Jun 18, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R
Great route. As of 17 June, 07 there was a pair of two solid looking bolts with chains on top.
|By Chris Hillios|
From: Newburyport, MA
May 25, 2009
Although the anchors at the top appear to be setup for rapping back down the route, our 60m didn't seem to reach, we rapped of the back where our rope easily reached the ground.
|By Mike McNeil|
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Jul 28, 2009
A 70m will get you back down the route.
|By Brent Kertzman|
From: Black Hills, SD
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13
For the sake of historical perspective it should be noted that Peter D. drilled all of the bolts on this route ground up in a single push.