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Nanook of the North 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Smith 7/95
Page Views: 480
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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nanook

Description 

A fun route for sure, but compared to its neighbor to the right, it's not quite as classic. But who wants to compare? Not me, but if you only have time for one hard 5.11 do Alaskan Arches (5.11d). Ok, let's sit back and look in to the route at hand.

Start up the right-leaning crack clipping 2 bolts above the crack.This part looks quite easy, and it's not too hard but harder than it looks. Move right on to a ledge clip another bolt and head up in to a really cool dihedral with good holds.Exiting the corner is the first crux involving the use of small stemming feet and an undercling. Above this is a sloping hueco-ish hold. From that hold, move up and right to another hueco (this one is a super jug). Take a rest here 'cause you will need it. The anchor is close now, but it's guarded by a vicious crimpy section. When I was onsighting, I went up right then back down to the jug.Up left and back to the jug.then chose up right though it felt hard for the grade. That way it went well. There is a good jug off to the left of the anchor to clip from.

Please post if you have any beta on the top crux section, 'cause it seemed like it could be done a few ways.

Location 

The far left route on Yellow Knife.Left of Alaskan Arches (5.11d) and up the hill.

Protection 

6 bolts to anchor.


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By twellman
Sep 7, 2010

The top crux is indeed quite hard, and a proud onsight. First, I tried going up left from the hueco jug to the tiny crimp, and then up to the gaston sidepull to the right, but this spit me off. On my second try, I had the hueco in my left hand and a good pocket slightly up to the right, got my left foot high on a good edge, reached up w/ left hand to the sidepull (reachy), then got my left foot up into the hueco jug. There's a small crimp out to the right to get your feet higher, then clip the anchors.

A couple hard 11 cruxes, and generally very technical and fun and with good falls. Get on it!
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 14, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Easy and fun climb up to the crux. I started with right hand in the jug. Crossed my left hand in the pocket. Brought my feet up and went for a gaston crimp with right hand. Left foot in the hueco. Left hand in the side pull.Cross right hand in final jug. Match the jug with left hand then clip. Easy after figuring the beta. Hard to onsight.