Nanna Gets Her Groove On
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|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 600 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.12 [details]|
|FA: ||Tim Snyder, Nathan Brown 2/11|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||nbrown on Feb 21, 2011|
This is a fun and high quality route. The first pitch features some very thin but positive crystal climbing and is quite unique to Laurel. It can be rappelled with a single 60 meter rope. The rest of the route follows an amazing 500+' groove to the top.
P-1 Stick clip first bolt. Climb the quartz dike feature (5.12?) and water streak past 10 bolts and a 5.11 crescendo to gain the belay in a bowl.
P-2 Climb the obvious groove/streak past 8 bolts and gear to a 2 bolt anchor at 185'. Nana's Bananas enters and exits the groove at bolt # 6. 5.10
P-3 Climb the short corner past gear to the cool groove with 4 bolts. Easier climbing above 4th bolt leads to a couple pieces of gear and then the large mossy ledge at 200'. Belay on #3 and #4 camelot. Note: It is possible (and might be easier) to stop and belay short on Nana's Bananas bolts out right before the ledge to avoid bringing the bigger cams. 5.9+
P-4 Pull the bulge past 1 bolt, using a hollow but seemingly solid enough flake. Easy climbing takes you to the top. Move right to anchors for Nana's/Girdle Traverse. 5/.10-
Rap Nana's Bananas.
NOTE: It is possible to start on "Nana's Bananas" and finish on "Nana Gets Her Groove On" by linking P-2 (the anchors have been moved down to allow the rope to reach). Nana's is the easiest way to get into the groove, as opposed to the harder of Nana gets her groove on.
Just right of Use It Or Luge It direct, and left of Nana's Bananas, on the bolted quartz band.
Light rack, including 1 set of TCU's and #2-#4 camelot
BETA PHOTO: topo
The middle portion between the anchors is pitch 2.
Lots o bolts... and hard climbing.
BETA PHOTO: Cool gear placement on pitch 3