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Laurel Knob
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Nana's Bananas 
Nanna Gets Her Groove On 
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Squirrely man 
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel 
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Stemming Laurel 
Stingray 
Unfathomable 
Use It Or Luge It 
Use it or Luge it Direct Start 
Walkin' Da Plank 
Wild Turkeys 
Wild Wild West  
Wormhole 

Nanna Gets Her Groove On 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tim Snyder, Nathan Brown 2/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,310
Submitted By: nbrown on Feb 21, 2011
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Lots o bolts... and hard climbing.
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun and high quality route. The first pitch features some very thin but positive crystal climbing and is quite unique to Laurel. It can be rappelled with a single 60 meter rope. The rest of the route follows an amazing 500+' groove to the top.

P-1 Stick clip first bolt. Climb the quartz dike feature (5.12?) and water streak past 10 bolts and a 5.11 crescendo to gain the belay in a bowl.

P-2 Climb the obvious groove/streak past 8 bolts and gear to a 2 bolt anchor at 185'. Nana's Bananas enters and exits the groove at bolt # 6. 5.10

P-3 Climb the short corner past gear to the cool groove with 4 bolts. Easier climbing above 4th bolt leads to a couple pieces of gear and then the large mossy ledge at 200'. Belay on #3 and #4 camelot. Note: It is possible (and might be easier) to stop and belay short on Nana's Bananas bolts out right before the ledge to avoid bringing the bigger cams. 5.9+

P-4 Pull the bulge past 1 bolt, using a hollow but seemingly solid enough flake. Easy climbing takes you to the top. Move right to anchors for Nana's/Girdle Traverse. 5/.10-

Rap Nana's Bananas.

NOTE: It is possible to start on "Nana's Bananas" and finish on "Nana Gets Her Groove On" by linking P-2 (the anchors have been moved down to allow the rope to reach). Nana's is the easiest way to get into the groove, as opposed to the harder of Nana gets her groove on.


Location 

Just right of Use It Or Luge It direct, and left of Nana's Bananas, on the bolted quartz band.


Protection 

Light rack, including 1 set of TCU's and #2-#4 camelot



Photos of Nanna Gets Her Groove On Slideshow Add Photo
topo
BETA PHOTO: topo
Pitch 2
Pitch 2
The middle portion between the anchors is pitch 2.
The middle portion between the anchors is pitch 2.
Cool gear placement on pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: Cool gear placement on pitch 3
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