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North Fin
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5 O'Clock Shadow 
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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Eden Masters
Page Views: 2,661
Submitted By: dcohn on Aug 25, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: Classic rope & rock photo


This is a long line that starts off on relatively low angle face with some thin holds and then gets progressively steeper. You might want to stick clip the first bolt or at least use a spotter. The tower on top is fairly steep but has big holds. The route is a challenge mentally with long run out sections and puzzling moves. Nang is a must do climb for sure.


Technically this route is on Blazing Fin. Walk around the south side of North Fin, past past Slippery When Wet, and then go north into the small gulley that separates North and Blazing fins. It is the second bolted route on the left and it goes all the way to the top of the tower.


A lot of quickdraws. A few nuts are optional. There is a two bolt anchor on top of the tower.

Photos of Nang Slideshow Add Photo
The slabby more technical half of Nang
The slabby more technical half of Nang
The upper "easier" pumpy section of Nang
The upper "easier" pumpy section of Nang
Comments on Nang Add Comment
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By Brent Silvester
Dec 11, 2008

In the guide book it says to walk off this thing. Has anyone done that? Looks a little stressful.

By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Dec 13, 2008

The walk off to the east is pretty casual, as I recall

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 25, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I guess they added bolts to the start of "My Mother the Rock". We ended up going up that thinking it was "Nang", but thankfully my partner had plenty of gear, because it's a good 30 feet of sustained face climbing from the third bolt to the fourth bolt under the chimney. Then he trended left and joined up with "Nang". This variation is a great climb in its own right.

If you want to do "Nang", make sure you get on the second bolt line from climber's right. That's definitely the only one of those two lines that fits the "gear-optional" description.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 25, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

On the walk-off there's just one step-across move over a 3-4 foot gap that requires a little attention but is easier than it first looks, then the rest is casual. Once on the other side, you stay towards the outside and end up over by the anchors for Agatha Christie on the North Fin (for those who want to leave packs at top).

By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Jan 26, 2009

The extra bolts right of Nang are my fault. They were the result of a mixup as to where "my mother the rock" really goes. It's not where the book says it is, but after it was all said and done, Todd Bibler said I should leave the bolts, so I did. FWIW, I think it ended up a really fun (now mixed) route (there are four bolts over the course of 150 ft.)

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 26, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Didn't bother me, it's a pretty cool variation actually. I haven't led it yet, but from following seemed like really cool 9+/10a moves over good gear, then you can finish on Nang on the tower by extending the 4th bolt under the chimney and the first bolt on Nang itself.

Seems like the R rating on "Mother" would be from trying to protect the really thin seams at the bottom, wherever they may be (near your bolt line or further to the climber's right).

By Cody M
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 28, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Awesome climb!! Really long with great movement and solid rock the whole way. The walk off requires one small jump (a few feet) but is otherwise pretty casual. 13 bolts plus two shiny new ones up top for belaying your second.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This is an absolutely brilliant climb. Best route our family did in a week of climbing here at Mt Lemmon. Has a bit of hard slabby crimps, a little runnout to keep you focused and ends with awesome overhanging jugs. A classic and memorable 5.10 for any area. Do it.

By Hubert Cumberdale
Apr 8, 2014

Maybe I'm a wimp, but I found the "walk-off" (actually a jump, from an inclined surface to an inclined surface, over a 160 foot deep chasm) to be terrifying.