Park in the lot at the hairpin turn. Hike up the trail (South Fork Canyon) for about 45 minutes. Then canyon will narrow the farther you go. Just before scrambling is required, on your left will be an overhanging wall with three sport routes. The short one on the left is a good warm up at 5.10+. Then Huecos Rancheros (5.12c) is the center and on the right is Namaste (5.12a). These are all beautiful lines.
If you've seen images of this climb, you need to hike in and climb it. It is one of the coolest desert sport routes I've done. Most of the holds are big and none of the moves are hard, but by the end, you're getting pumped. I think there might be a kneebar somewhere around mid-height to shake out.
Getting down from Huecos Rancheros and Namaste is a little tricky if you are leading and cleaning since you need two ropes and the routes are very steep.
14 bolts, anchors, and two ropes.
Namaste is the bolted line third-from-the-left.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 3, 2003
This route does look very cool although I've only done the route on the left (does this route have a name, anyone know?). One interesting fact is that you can't establish routes on this wall from above, it's smooth and overhanging. All these routes have been established by hanging off hooks to put the bolts in.
From: Steamboat Springs, CO
Apr 18, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
I onsighted this climb 11/03, and even though I think it is a spectacular sport route, and would like to accept the 12a rating, I just did't think it matached up with other 12's in the area (Zion or St. George). If you have good endurance and can hold on to 10b holds for 150 feet it is all yours.
P.S. the first bolted route to the left (10a/b)is a great warm up for either Hueco's or Namaste.
|By Bill Bones|
May 20, 2007
You can climb this route with one 70M rope.
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
May 25, 2007
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Again as "HR" this would be a 11+ (c/d) and NO MORE, if it were anywhere on the east. Still one of the best sport climbs in the country!!!!!! ....Get on it, there is a sit down no hands rest about 9-10 bolts in, after the ladder section..
Also you can TR it with a 70m rope with about 2-3 feet on either end
From: centerville, utah
Nov 19, 2007
make sure you get on the right route. namaste is the third from the left not the center one.
it goes from left to right. 10+, 12c, 12a, and a project. these climbs are other worldly, i feel very lucky to be in their presence.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 26, 2009
Gaar, you're nuts. As most the moves are straight forward there are several reachy ones that take strength, reach and technique to pull off without hangin'. Pump factor is a legal element to bump the rating to .12. Furthermore, I highly doubt the .10+ leader could do this route clean. (myself included)
This route like it's easier neighbor 1/2 route is fantastic and worth doing over and over again.
Shady, quiet and perfect temps late June '09 (and not a single mosquito)
|By Peter Winter|
Dec 27, 2009
Super fun, we both figured 11d. Lots of good rests, plus a no-hands to get it all back.
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Mar 21, 2010
Try greeting the next single Indian girl you meet with the phrase "Namaste", and it may earn you you a few bonus points!
|By Jacques Lepesant|
Apr 9, 2010
12a ...11d...no matter. What's important: Namaste is THE line to do!!
did the route on 4/3/2010... still lots of snow on the approach in the canyon, but very nice.
one of the very best sportclimbs I ever did.
|By Kevin Volkening|
May 25, 2011
Thanks Conrad! These lines are truly special climbs, above the realm of grades... There are 4 complete bolt lines plus the unfinished route on the right. I hope to see further development of other lines on this wall, room for several others!
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Oct 3, 2011
My new favorite sport route. Jugs, jugs,jugs. Some of the most beautiful climbing anywhere. The whole experience up there is 2nd to none. Would love to chalk this one up as 12a but its not. Soft. Super straight forward and 2 no hands rests make it an easy 12a tick. Magnifico!
|By Mark Lewis|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 22, 2013
I'm confused some on the length of the climb. If it's 140 feet that means it's 43m. One would need an 86 meter rope to do it with a single. Some of you said you did it on a 70m line, that's a difference of 16m or 53 feet. Even with extensive rope stretch a 70m line won't stretch 16 meters. What am I missing? What is the actual length of the climb?
If a 70 meter line works that would mean the climb is no higher than 115 feet, not 140 feet.
|By J tot|
From: Tempe, AZ
Jan 23, 2013
I haven't been out to this area, but have been looking at it... a lot. If they climb 140 feet but can still lower to the ground with a 70m (230') rope. That means the climber is only 90' off that ground at the anchors and 110' away from the base of the climb when they start. Which would make this climb ~50 degrees overhung.
I sincerely hope so!
|By dave blackburn|
From: las vegas
May 23, 2013
I climbed this with a 70m last fall as well as the 10 and 11's.
|By Pat Mac|
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
70m works. At the very worst the belayer can climb up to the first bolt.
|By Omar Little|
Jun 1, 2013
What is the sun/shade like on the routes here in the summer? I'll be in Zion in early July and am hoping to take a day to check out Namaste and HR.
|By Landon McBrayer|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2013
We used a 70m and had plenty to spare after lowering.
|By Harrison Teuber|
Nov 13, 2013
Yes, do these routes get much sun ? Will be passing through around the end of December. Would like to check them out if the weather is decent.
Nov 14, 2013
These routes do not get any sun. Even in the summer. It'll be cold for sure in December. If there is not a lot of snow it'll still be accessible, just bring hand warmers and a hot beverage.
From: Sandy, UT
Nov 29, 2013
I'm curious to know how many of us have accidentally climbed Dost Mitra instead of Namaste. Maybe that is why everyone thinks that Namaste should be down-graded. Dost Mitra is a 5.11 and it is between Huecos Rancheros and Namaste, the third route from the left.
From: Westminster, CO
Dec 20, 2013
I don't understand why anyone would try to downrate a classic line like this. When we did this route a few years ago the LAST thing on our mind was the grade. If you want to spend the time downgrading routes head down to St George and downgrade every single line on the Chuckwalla until you're blue in the face. I want to feel honest about the routes I've done just as much as the next person, but no one is getting paid to send this thing so enjoy the experience and forget about whether, or not it's 11c or 12a. This route would be classic no matter where it existed in the country.
Feb 12, 2014
Jarthur, it seems no one is debating how good it is, just the grade, and the importance of it is this: As a classic route that stands out, it will be climbed by a lot of different people, thereby becoming a benchmark for the grade by default. More and more climbers may very well say, "Namaste is 12a, and this is other route is harder, so ..." and that is how grades continue to inflate. Let's enjoy quality routes, for sure, but also be honest about our opinions on difficulty. I haven't touched the climb, so I don't get the slightest vote in this case, but every one who does gets a vote, and I encourage all of us to be honest so that there may be a true consensus and benchmark for aspiring 5.12 climbers to measure themselves against.
Mar 29, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Just got back from climbing Namaste. It is NOT 140'. My 70m rope worked; same for the group before me. It may be slightly over 115' because the wildly overhanging wall forms the hypotenuse, whereas you lower straight down, probably 35 or 40' from the start (and slightly higher). I cleaned it while lowering, but then climbed back up to the 3rd bolt before cutting loose - and still hit a few thin trees. 11d, or one of the easiest 12a's I've ever done. Got more pumped on Dost Mitra.