|Original:||YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jared LaVacque on May 29, 2013|
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By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jun 10, 2016
6/10/16 Sat Nam is probably closer to .13b now, versus .13a. At the end of the crux, 7 years ago, I broke a 15 pound undercling off, on my 2nd lap on the route. This hold(when intact) made the transition from just under the 3rd bolt much more fluid. It is now more thrutchy and the boulder problem keeps going for a couple more moves.
This route is now comparable in grade, though slightly taller than Harpooned on the Glenn, which is consensus .13b. So, for similar height and a boulder problem, .13b is probably correct.
I cleaned the route from 3rd bolt to anchor and most of the holds were under lichen and a lot of moss/debris fall. Having done this route every couple of years, yet not since 2012, as the last time, it has definitely seen no traffic to the anchor....and the holds cleaned were pretty necessary to gain the now severely rusted anchors.
I will retro the anchor and bolts if those are deemed questionable soon. Stay tuned for updates :)