The crux is cool stemming through the downward-pointing roofs. Excellent climbing and good gear the whole way.
Start just left of Tese, make a committing move up to a flake/horn, sling the horn and step up to a good crack system, follow the left-leaning crack to the roofs, stem and make wild moves into a shallow corner, and follow the nice corner to the anchor of Tese.
Gear up to a gold Camalot. Bring extra greens. Rap from the two-bolt ring anchor of "Tese".
At the crux overhang where you will find the lone ...
BETA PHOTO: Close-up of the Nala overhang. Good stemming leads...
|By Ryan Brough|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jun 25, 2008
Was this climb retro-bolted? I climbed a route to the left of Tese that seemed to share the same start as Romancing the Stone, but went through the small, tiered roof system and then up the north face of an arete to the top of the buttress. There's a photo topo posted in the Romancing the Stone route with a small bush under the tiered roof system that has been cut out and a bolt was placed above it. Maybe it's just a bolted variation of Romancing the Stone?
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I was able to make some sense out of the line tonight and did it, but it felt tight between Tese and Romancing... if someone is on one or the other, this one is too close to climb comfortably. The route can certainly be done without the bolt, as an Alien goes in just before the roof crux, but at and above the roof you do a few moves that are not super-well-protected.