Naked Lunch 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 5 pitches, 360 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Adams & Hare, 2002 |
| Submitted By: | david goldstein on Jul 26, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 (crux) of Naked Lunch, with the fun roof o...
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Description An excellent outing on the wall between Rock Odyssey and Awakenings. Note: except for one easily avoided move on P3, this is all Dream Canyon 5.10. Don't miss the fourth pitch which culminates the route with a nicely exposed roof.
Start in the same spot as Rock Odysseyand Awakenings, but scramble up a 3rd class ramp rightwards for about 20 to the first bolt.
P1: 10d (~7 bolts). Slabbing w/ a crux bulge @ the 3rd bolt. The first pitch of either of the other two routes could be substituted if looking to add difficulty.
P2: Actually starts at the Awakenings belay, so might be best to relocate here. Follow about 7 bolts up slabs (5.10) to a ledge with anchors.
P3: Step right, then slab up the extremely well protected crux. 5 bolts to the anchor but linking w/ P4 makes sense.
P4. Follow bolts up and left (don't go right, unless you want a rude awakening) with fun vertical moves to the finishing roof. A nice transition from slab to steep. 10d.
Rap the route w/ a single 60m, combining pitches 3 & 4 where one has to watch out for the ropes running through a notch in the roof.
The ratings are consistent with most Dream Canyon and Boulder Canyon sport climbing, but ...
Protection 7 draws plus biners etc for clipping the anchors. 10 draws + if linking 3 and 4.
Bee stemming into the roof, Pitch 4. Photo by Cra...
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Lenny Miller cruises the crux finger-tip lieback o...
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Lenny is on his way to combining pitches 3 and 4 h...
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Lenny in the p4 stem near the top of the pitch.
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By Dana Ernst
Jul 27, 2006
| There is a 5th pitch to this route. From the anchors atop pitch 4, climb up the slab (no harder than 5.8 if I remember correctly) to the top of the wall, passing a couple of diagonal cracks along the way. The pitch has far fewer bolts than the previous pitches, but there are gear options in the diagonal cracks. There is not a bolt anchor on top of the wall, however, there is a giant tree near where the route tops out. Great route! |
By Ben Collett
Oct 24, 2006
| From the top of the 4th pitch, a single rope rap (with a 60) will get you to the top of the 1st pitch of Rock Odyssey. And, by the way, this is a fun climb deserving more traffic than it gets. |
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