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 ADVANCED
The Stumbling Block
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle's End S 
Decoletage S 
Lips Against the Steel T,S 
Naked Kill T 
Razor Blade Titillation S 
Sabaki T,S,TR 
Unknown 1 T 
Unknown 2 T 

Naked Kill 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bret Ruckman/Jack Roberts 1990
Page Views: 2,915
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jul 5, 2007

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Initial attempt, Spring '07. Photo by Andrew Tower...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Naked Kill is a testpiece, hard crack splitting a green lichen face just right of the central chimney and left of Razor Blade Titillation. Though only about 50 feet to the ledge, it is on you the whole way. Slightly overhanging and highly technical flared jamming, strenuous finger locks, difficult pro placements -- best describe this proud line.

The crack was first freed by Bret Ruckman and Jack Roberts in 1990 at .12b, and apparently has been neglected until my repeat ascent. It has gotten much harder, after I removed a loose violin-case-sized chockstone from midway up the route…now necessitating several, insecure, long reaches to flared jams through this new crux.

The Kill is in your face the moment you step off the ground. After a bouldery start off of slopers, commit to 12b moves, followed by a 12c/d crux. Careful pro placements in the initial cruxes will keep you from decking -- the base is a bad landing, loose hillside. Higher up, it eases off for one more sting-in-the-tail move, 11b, to better holds and the ledge. Bail off at the bolt, or continue past, up a 5.9 move to easy slabs and the anchors of Razor Blade. This is the hardest trad route in the canyon.

Protection 

TCUs, nuts, and a few hand-sized pieces. Doubled up RPs may protect the entry moves. Bring an attentive belayer.


Photos of Naked Kill Slideshow Add Photo
LML before the rainy day send.
LML before the rainy day send.
End of crux #1. June, 2007.  Photo by Craig Luebbe...
End of crux #1. June, 2007. Photo by Craig Luebbe...
The crux for me....
The crux for me....
Mid crux #2, June, 2007.  Photo by Craig Luebben.
Mid crux #2, June, 2007. Photo by Craig Luebben.
Wham bam....  June, 2007. Photo by Craig Luebben.
Wham bam.... June, 2007. Photo by Craig Luebben.
A video grab of the send.
A video grab of the send.

Comments on Naked Kill Add Comment
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By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R

This route is sick!!!
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Apr 19, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R

^^^ Agreed. It climbs like a mix between finger crack and a sport climb.

As a note on gear, there are good pieces, it just helps to know where they are and where to just climb. Going ground up on this would be pretty bad ass. Excellent pro before the crux helps a lot (currently fixed nut here, sorry). I also added a nut hanger to the old bolt at the anchor to connect it with the new 1/2" bolt with locker to add some redundancy.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 21, 2014

Did the nut seem like it was about the perfect length to equalize with the new bolt? ;)
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Apr 22, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R

Ha, perfect indeed...

(fine handy work up there).