|The Stumbling Block
The Naked Kill is a testpiece, hard crack splitting a green lichen face just right of the central chimney and left of Razor Blade Titillation. Though only about 50 feet to the ledge, it is on you the whole way. Slightly overhanging and highly technical flared jamming, strenuous finger locks, difficult pro placements -- best describe this proud line.
The crack was first freed by Bret Ruckman and Jack Roberts in 1990 at .12b, and apparently has been neglected until my repeat ascent. It has gotten much harder, after I removed a loose violin-case-sized chockstone from midway up the route…now necessitating several, insecure, long reaches to flared jams through this new crux.
The Kill is in your face the moment you step off the ground. After a bouldery start off of slopers, commit to 12b moves, followed by a 12c/d crux. Careful pro placements in the initial cruxes will keep you from decking -- the base is a bad landing, loose hillside. Higher up, it eases off for one more sting-in-the-tail move, 11b, to better holds and the ledge. Bail off at the bolt, or continue past, up a 5.9 move to easy slabs and the anchors of Razor Blade. This is the hardest trad route in the canyon.
TCUs, nuts, and a few hand-sized pieces. Doubled up RPs may protect the entry moves. Bring an attentive belayer.
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b R
This route is sick!!!