A nice two pitch route in the center of the west face. The last bit of the second pitch seems to be the crux, though getting started is an odd bit of climbing. Excellent City rock, good stances, enjoyable movement make this a quality line.
Scramble to a sloping ledge or terrace in the middle of the west face. The first bolt is up and left of the most comfortable part of this ledge. Move left and up into a sort of chimney to get onto the face proper and this first bolt. The route moves right and up, and the second pitch more or less straight up. Both belays have chained anchors.
This is a well bolted sport route.
|By Andy Shoemaker|
5 days ago
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great climb for the grade, with the second pitch being the better of the two. Was a little ticky to find. Easiest way to explain it, the North Fork trail just ends abruptly in a decent size aspen grove. At this point to your right (south-ish) you should see Nameless Tower through the aspens. There was no obvious trail through the trees to the base of the climb. But its there, and once you wander south you will have the perspective seen in the guidebook and will be able to find the base of the climb. (the photo on the "Nameless Tower" page on here helped us recognize the rock) Pitch one started off a little odd and boulder-y and finished off on cheezy slab (5.8 for the first 20' then 5.6 to the first set of chains) pitch 2 was much more fun. It had a little more exposure and overall better movement (sustained 5.8), reminiscent of "Too much fun." 12 draws should be more than enough, I think we only used 9 or 10. Chains at both anchors, we used one 70m to rap but it looked like a 60m would have sufficed.
Overall well worth the trouble to find it. Should have shade till midmorning. Hit Bikini Candy on the Tahitian Wall up on the way, and Cruel Shoes on Stripe Rock on the way back.