Nails to Nowhere
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BETA PHOTO: Nails to Nowhere follows the seam in the center of...
|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
Nails to Nowhere is the obvious, left-leaning seam eight feet right of the huge boulder blocking the trail at the base of Hawk Eagle.
Start at the base of a tips crack and make a move right to a jug then head up and left along the seam to a jug shelf at the seam's end. Pull over onto the slab above and follow easy but unprotected moves (5.9 X) to a large ledge. Belay on gear, scramble off right.
Far right side of Hawk Eagle, just right of the huge boulder blocking the approach trail.
I used two Black Aliens and that's it. There's a nut placement mid crux, but I wasn't strong enough to place it so I skipped it. Wasn't really psyched on the quality of either Alien though, the low one seemed flarey and might rip, the high one, besides being like a puzzle-piece to get in there, is also behind a flake that seems solid, but may not stay if it had to hold a big whip. Who knows, both pieces could be bomber and I am just a big wimp.
There's a couple gear options up top for the anchor, but the one I used could be made using a SR and a #4 Camalot.
By Jason Haas
Feb 10, 2009
Sorry, the 5.9 top is still REALLY dirty (sorry I forgot to bring a brush the second time) so be careful.
The route has big moves on it, especially at the crux, so it may feel hard for the grade for shorter folk.