mythos vs technos

i saw on the other thread that some people with wider feet prefer scarpas, so instead of hijacking that thread, i thought i'd ask to see if anyone has had any experience, i have a pair of mythos now that i've just gotten, but i do have a wide foot and the mythos are killing me...are the technos comparable? the last time i tried them on they felt uber stiff like they'd be good for cracks and jamming, how are they otherwise? should i just keep going with the mythos, or seriously consider getting the technos?

I've had both and the Mythos are definitely better. They do take a while to break in. 2 weeks or so. If you haven't had them long enough that might be the problem. The Technos weren't durable at all. One month and they were shredded.

I have a small wide foot and wear mythos. I wear scarpas for approach shoes and found the technos very tight.

5.10 Newtons... or Acopas, if you can still find'em!

I bought a pair of Technos 'cuz they were onsale. Sized them for comfort but still wanted to get some performance out of them on long trad. I was very disappointed. Probably because they didn't fit my foot properly.

I can see how they might edge well if you have a narrow foot but I have an average size foot and there was a tad bit of space at the end due to my choosing a comfy size. Beyond that I thought the rubber was shit. My Chacos are stickier.

They are great if you have both feet in a crack all day (Indian Creek #1 - offwidth) but then you have to carry around a bunch of para-cord and replace the laces once a week.

Definitely not a wide foot shoe... not even close.

i'll def have to check out the newtons, i had looked at them a while back but never got to try them on, how about their new hueco? i've pretty much taken the techno out of the picture now, by the sound of it they're just shit.

I didn't want to imply that they are crap shoes. Mine certainly didn't fall apart like Andrew's did. I beat the hell out of them at Indian Creek for over a month and the only problem I had was the laces tearing, but this happens with all lace shoes.

My problems were mainly caused by the fact that I bought the wrong shoes for my feet. Stupid mistake. I'm sure for the narrow footed climber they perform well. They do have a nice heal tensioning system, nicer than the Mythos IMHO. This means you can keep em relaxed for slab or crank em down for techy face.

That said, $140 is stiff. I got mine for $99.

Try them on and get the one that fits your foot the best. What routes/styles do you climb?

i'll be using these for cracks/multi pitch trad, with a bit of slab thrown in there every once and a while as well

i've got a pair of miura's for technical face climbing

whats the deal with the hueco? old classic brought back is cool, how would they fare?

After years of being comited to Mythos, I tried the Technos in'08 and am never going back.

I can't speak for the mythos but I've been climbing in technos recently and really like them. I have a narrow foot (AA) and they fit well so they may not be great for a wider foot. They do edge very well and I find the rubber quite sticky. I've mostly preferred Five Ten stealth rubber and find the "stick" with the techno's rubber to be equally as good.

It's interesting to read the other comments about the technos. Mine are holding up well after a few months of pretty heavy usage and the rubber feels sticky to me. As they say, your mileage may vary.

I have had a couple pairs of Mythos that are comfortable, but I consider them pretty low performance, so they area comfort shoe for east trad. I preferred my Sportiva Barracudas.
Last year, I tried the Technos since they no longer make Barracudas... despite trying to break them in the pain was unbearable and I had to return them to REI.

My toes are very wide while the rest of my foot is narrow. The Technos do not work for my foot type. The Mythos seem to stretch and fit perfectly. I have read many good reviews about the Technos, so maybe those fit better if your toes aren't as wide compared to the rest of your foot.

Julius Beres wrote:I preferred my Sportiva Barracudas. Last year, I tried the Technos since they no longer make Barracudas... despite trying to break them in the pain was unbearable and I had to return them to REI.

+1. I also like the barracudas, and the technos did not work for my foot. One person's "comfort performance" shoe will be uncomfortable and sloppy to another. You have to try them on and decide what works for you. Also, don't limit yourself to the mfr's "comfort" shoes, as a slightly more aggressive shoe that fits well will be way more comfortable than a "comfort" shoe with the wrong fit.

I have wide feet and really like the Technos. They were a little uncomfortable until I broke them in but now are great. I haven't had any durability issues and the rubber is as sticky as any I've used.

I have quite narrow feet and have climbed in both for several years each. Personally, I like the Techno better for several reasons and have not had durability issues with that shoe. It has less break-in time and stretches much less overall than the Mythos. I find the technical performance is a bit better as well and it's more precise on small edges (though of course it's not a pure edging/face shoe like, say, the Scarpa Feroce). Sized small, it performs well for an all-around shoe and sized a bit larger, it's a great all-day trad shoe. FYI over the course of a year of regular climbing, I'd say the Techno will stretch about 1/4 to 1/2 size.